After what 2020 taught us about cooking, just pour some brandy in your fruit - Madison.com

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After what 2020 taught us about cooking, just pour some brandy in your fruit - Madison.com


After what 2020 taught us about cooking, just pour some brandy in your fruit - Madison.com

Posted: 19 Dec 2020 06:00 AM PST

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Made with instant yeast and bread flour, focaccia is a quick-rising bread that takes well to lots of olive oil and dried herbs. 

We all learned something new in 2020, whether we meant to or not.

After nearly 10 years of keeping a starter alive, I finally made a decent loaf of sourdough (it took four months, but who's counting?). Last year, I thought I cooked all the time. This year, I saw just how fast the fridge empties when we're not eating out at all.

I finally acknowledged that how much I enjoy takeout is inversely proportional to how much plastic comes with it. And I learned my love of cooking does have limits. 

Daily cooking creates its own feedback loop. Thanksgiving was a case in point: I can roast a chicken with my eyes closed, but duck is expensive ($48 for a farm-raised bird at the farmers' market).

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Brandied fruit, from a recent recipe in the New York Times, can be turned into cocktails and baked into scones. 

Because I never cook it, when I do roast a duck, I'm not very good at it — I misjudge temperatures and cooking times; I fret over the butchery. The glorious, expensive main dish on our holiday table was so overcooked and tough, I could have cried.

For Christmas, we're doing a takeout feast (thanks in advance, Heritage Tavern!). But in the spirit of the season, I want to offer some holiday cooking inspiration anyway, so here are a few recipes that have worked lately. Many of them are cookies. That is on purpose. 

Smashed green beans with lemony sumac dressing by Sohla El-Waylly in Bon Appetit — Among the things I loved about this fresh, zippy green bean side dish was that you can and should make it ahead. I love sumac, a lightly sour spice found in za'atar, and I loved the addition of fresh pear and toasted pepitas to finish. bonappetit.com/recipe/smashed-green-beans-with-lemony-sumac-dressing

Focaccia — After a stretch of not being able to find yeast in stores, I got a little cocky. Using instant or active dry yeast to make bread felt weirdly like cheating! When I finally got some, my friend Lauren talked me into trying this quick focaccia by sending mouth-watering photos over Messenger.

I am really glad she did, because focaccia took so well to the last of my fresh rosemary and I drowned it in olive oil. It was great for breakfast and on sandwiches. Use this recipe (cupcakesfordinner.com/2018/02/08/gbbo-focaccia) if you just have yeast, or this (kingarthurbaking.com/recipes/sourdough-focaccia-recipe) if you have both starter and yeast.

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The focaccia made with instant yeast had a better rise, but the focaccia with sourdough starter in addition to yeast tasted better. Your mileage may vary. 

Roasted and raw Brussels sprouts salad from Susan Spungen in The New York Times — I picked up Spungen's new cookbook, "Open Kitchen," earlier this year but I haven't cooked out of it much yet. This recipe gives a glimpse of how masterful she is with texture and flavor. Almonds, pecorino and a sherry vinaigrette are a perfect match for the earthiness of the sprouts. cooking.nytimes.com/recipes/1020553-roasted-and-raw-brussels-sprouts-salad

Triple-ginger chocolate chunk cookies by Susan Spungen in "Open Kitchen" — Do as Susan says and not as I did when baking these intensely chocolately, lightly spicy molasses cookies. I didn't freeze the dough balls. I cooked two sheets at a time. I didn't let the pans cool between batches. Ergo, my cookies came out flat as little pancakes. Bake along on Food52's podcast if you want the real blow-by-blow on these: food52.com/recipes/84445-best-molasses-cookies-recipe-with-chocolate

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My chocolate ginger cookies did not look like this. These chocolate cookies are beautiful. If you follow Susan Spungen's directions (as I did not), you may be this aesthetically successful. 

Dorie Greenspan's sables from "Baking" and "Dorie's Cookies" — My sables are unbeautiful. They are knobby and misshapen and of uneven thickness. Thankfully I used fancy cultured butter and didn't overwehrk them (as Paul Hollywood says on the British Bake-Off), so dangit, they're delightful. I recommend searching YouTube if you are new to butter cookie baking. saveur.com/article/Recipes/Dorie-Greenspans-Sables

Sweet and salty peanut cookies from "How to Be a Domestic Goddess" by Nigella Lawson — You may have to get out the scale here if you don't already have self-rising cake flour in the house (and who does?). Once the math is worked out, you'll have a super light, buttery, peanut butter cookie without any actual peanut butter. Overbuy the Planters for holiday snacking! theguardian.com/food/2018/oct/31/nigella-lawson-peanut-cookies-butter-fingers-justin-gellatly-biscuits

Cranberry lemon bars by Genevieve Ko in the New York Times — I took a tip from the comments and doubled the lemon layer on these fabulous bars, which came together easily while we watched "A Muppet Christmas Carol." (Light the lamp, not the rat!) And store them in the Minnesota fridge (garage) if you've got one; they do fine. cooking.nytimes.com/recipes/1021641-cranberry-lemon-bars

Brandied fruit by Yewande Komolafe in the New York Times — I baked a bunch of different holiday cookies (obviously) but to date, this is the most festive thing I assembled. I've now got a Mason jar full of liquored up cranberries, cherries, apricots, currants and sultanas in the front of my fridge. On day six, the cocktail they made (with more brandy, naturally) was simply divine. I cannot wait to put them in scones. nytimes.com/2020/11/30/dining/brandied-fruit-recipe.html

More from the Capital Times

33 Recipes Our Food Staff Cooked on Repeat in 2020 - The New York Times

Posted: 19 Dec 2020 07:30 AM PST

We asked our reporters and editors to share the recipes they cooked most often this year, and there were a lot of favorites: Yossy Arefi's skillet caramel-apple crisp (above); Aaron Hutcherson's spicy sweet potato and Cheddar croquettes; Darun Kwak's kimchi bibim guksu; Alexa Weibel's vegan cacio e pepe; Yewande Komolafe's baked tofu with peanut sauce; Tejal Rao's aloo masala; and many more in the collection below.

House fire breaks out in Cleveland when resident cooking food falls asleep - WSB Atlanta

Posted: 19 Dec 2020 07:48 PM PST

[unable to retrieve full-text content]House fire breaks out in Cleveland when resident cooking food falls asleep  WSB Atlanta

Cooking for St. Jude in the quarantine, while a tree rises at Sacred Heart | Pamela’s Food Service Diary - SILive.com

Posted: 20 Dec 2020 03:00 AM PST

STATEN ISLAND, N.Y. — On a Sunday in this column, the hope is to deliver encouraging, positive news about our food community and maybe a little beyond it. Hopefully, since March, our chats have prompted a laugh or smile from you and the reality that not all is bad in our COVID-19 world. So with that, let's spotlight one great thing to come of the pandemic — the unlikely yet sweet relationships formed as people sought their way out of those dark, surreal days of quarantine.

Quarantine

Quarantine Cuisine is a compilation of recipes from a blog that sprang up in the COVID-19 quarantine stage. Pamela SilvestriPamela Silvestri

That sentiment leads us to a recently self-published cookbook brought to us by Camille Pizzo of Willowbrook, the founder of a tight-knit Facebook community known as "Quarantine Cuisine." That page claims about 4,200 members at the moment and offers an incredible body of work collected primarily from Staten Islanders, Brooklynites, Long Island residents and those from the Garden State. So these are distinctly regional recipes through which to cull.

Pizzo approves members one at a time. She said, "The page grew by people recommending people. It grew into other countries. People were enjoying the respect on the page. Everyone felt they were part of a group and they felt safe."

By the time the cookbook idea came about, the new author admits that the task of replicating recipes was scary. Pizzo aimed to capture exact flavors and the true essence of each formula. She picked over 50 Quarantine Cuisine blog posts for the publication, cooking or baking each with a "test kitchen committee" comprised of Lucille Desiano, Antonella Recchia, Lucy, Lucy Scalici and Loredana Lentini-Sherman. Pizzo's team also included editors Marian Cirillo and Gerri Silver.

All proceeds from the book go to the St. Jude Children's Foundation. The cost of the cookbook is $20 through Venmo or cash on delivery with pickup sites on Staten Island, Brooklyn, Valley Stream, L.I. and at Camille's brother Charlie Mule's restaurant at TST Barbecue 910 Rte. 36, Leonardo, N.J. Shipped orders cost an additional $8.45 to cover postage and packaging. Call or text Camille at 917-662-8968 for more information.

Quarantine

Sacred Heart R.C.Church. (Courtesy of Fr. Eric Rapaglia)Pamela Silvestri

With a great love for the holiday season, we've been following the festive Christmas tree developments in front of Sacred Heart R.C. Church.

Resident pastor Fr. Eric Rapaglia shared some images of the almost three-story spruce and explained some of the details of the decorating.

He said, "The lighted tree is the result of the generosity of Tom Newmann, a parishioner, who owns Newmann's Tree Services. The Holy Name Society, men's group of the parish, got in touch with 'Tommy Trees,' as we call him, and he came down with his truck and cherry-picker to put the lights on and the tree-topper."

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How the tree was decorated (Staten Island Advance/Pamela Silvestri)

An electrician set up a new outlet nearby to accommodate the tree and the Nativity scene, all coordinated by the Holy Name Society. A talented Billy Rautenstrauch made the star himself for the crown.

Fr. Eric enthused, "By means of this project, we wanted to say with Christian joy after a very trying year: our faith is still strong! Praised be Jesus Christ!"

Quarantine

James Cavagnaro, 11, has his poker face on (Staten Island Advance/Pamela Silvestri)Pamela Silvestri

And if it's not the irony of quarantine bringing a bond then it is the snow. We played Texas Hold 'Em on Wednesday night while the wind howled outside. With no school the next day, the boys went to bed on the late side. Sure we were pooped by Thursday but were thankful for our good neighbor Nick who helped plow a good swath of our West Brighton block without dropping a cigarette.

Keep in touch.

Pamela Silvestri is Advance Food Editor. She can be reached at silvestri@siadvance.com.

Quarantine

Neighbor Nick plowing snow in West Brighton (Staten Island Advance/Pamela Silvestri)Pamela Silvestri



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