'Cooking as therapy': California's top chefs on the recipes that got them through 2020 - The Guardian |
Posted: 28 Dec 2020 01:00 AM PST California's Bay Area is home to some of the country's best restaurants, and many global food trends – from the sourdough craze to the farm-to-table movement – can trace their roots back here. But with the pandemic upending the restaurant world, Bay Area chefs have been doing what we're all doing: cooking and eating more at home, and turning to food as a source of comfort, nostalgia and creative relief. We caught up with our favorite chefs, some of whom have been driving the Bay Area's scene for decades, and others who are shaping its future: Alice Waters, the doyenne of seasonal eating and founder of Chez Panisse; Gilbert Pilgram, the exuberant head chef of the longtime San Francisco favorite Zuni Cafe; Sarah Kirnon, the founder of Oakland's beloved Caribbean restaurant Miss Ollie's; Brandon Jew, the founder of the boundary-pushing Chinatown eatery Mister Jiu's; and Reem Assil, whose California-inspired take on the traditional Arab bakery has won Reem's national accolades. We asked them to discuss the role that food is playing in their lives right now, and the dishes they're turning to most often. And each have shared a recipe that readers can make in their kitchens at home. Interviews have been condensed for length and clarity. "Making jerk chicken triggered emotions I hadn't addressed" Sarah Kirnon, Miss Ollie'sFor me, this time has really been all about more outdoor cooking – lots and lots of grilling. Which is something I do anyway, but now it's been more intentional, because I still love having people around. In my circle of friends and family, I've always been the person that cooks for birthdays and special occasions, usually at my house in Oakland, and that feels like a safe way for us all to be together. My partner and daughter are vegan, so we do veggie and meat grills. And a friend of mine recently gave me this really beautiful smoker/grill; she actually bought it with an ex-boyfriend and was convinced it had bad juju, so I inherited it. On Labor Day, I marinated some jerk chicken and smoked it for four hours. We made the grill the centerpiece of the garden, we had music, it was just a really beautiful day. The smoke, the smell of the allspice wood, it reminded me of home. Which was a bit sentimental, because this is the first year that I haven't been back to Barbados to see my family. I wasn't sad, but it was emotional. I thought I was dealing with Covid really well, but not being able to see my extended family – who all live in London, Barbados and other islands of the Caribbean – triggered in me emotions I don't think I had addressed. I was born in the late 60s, when dining out meant you supported a small, neighborhood joint, where you went for birthdays and family occasions. That's changed a lot over the years. So, at the restaurant, it has been beautiful to see people slow down a bit, people being happy to wait, happy to engage with somebody outside their home. I hope that's one of the things we hold onto when things go back to normalcy. "My daughter and I love playing 'restaurant' at home"
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Our top recipes of 2020. Including the #stew that broke the internet - The Irish Times Posted: 27 Dec 2020 10:05 PM PST It was the most read, and we surmise the most cooked, recipe of 2020 at Irish Times Food, but not everyone is on board with Alison Roman's chickpea stew, or spiced chickpea stew with coconut and turmeric, to give it its proper title. The internet sensation, which first appeared in the New York Times, has proved to be devisive, but that didn't stop us making it, in our droves. Is it a stew, or is it a soup? That was the question many of us posed when we chopped, fried and simmered our way through the recipe. With two cans of full-fat coconut milk going in, it definitely came out more of a (don't count the calories) soup when I made it. But a lot depends on the greens you add to the fragrant broth; spinach and chard wilt down to a less substantial mass than say kale, or the collard greens Roman calls for. In any case, we needed something to use up all those chickpeas stockpiled at the start of the pandemic and for many of us, this hit the spot. Judging by how often it still pops up among the most-read food articles at irishtimes.com, it still delivers. Baking recipes performed extremely well during 2020, and we are not talking about sourdough and banana bread. Pastry chef Aoife Noonan joined the Irish Times Food team in 2020, and made her mark from the get-go. Readers loved her lemon cheesecake bars so much that it became our second most read recipe of the year. With their ginger biscuit base, creamy lemon filling and lemon curd drizze, these brought a ray of sunshine to dreary October days. Noonan is also responsible for our third most popular recipe of 2020. Her apple, Cheddar and thyme scones promised a light and pillowy interior as well as an unusual savoury twist on a teatime classic, and the accompanying Harry Weir photograph of one split open and slathered with butter had us running to the kitchen to whip up a batch. Noonan's predecessor in the BAKE kitchen, Vanessa Greenwood, also inspired us to get the mixing bowl out. Readers loved her blueberry oat slices, a simple but very tasty snack, and her coffee traybake, an easy all-in-one sponge mixture topped with coffee buttercream. But it wasn't all sugar and spice this past, difficult year. We needed solid nourishment, and maybe comfort too, to get us through the tough days. Paul Flynn kept us fed, and interested in what we were making, without being too challenging. His most read recipe of the year featured something he is very fond of, chorizo, and it's an appreciation shared by many of us. Baked pasta with chorizo and Parmesan appeared in a column about his family's favourite dishes, and we can see why. The recipe cleverly blends plum tomatoes with cream, garlic and a chicken stock cube for an instant sauce the pasta is baked in. Flynn's second most read recipe of the year saw him off on his culinary travels, to Thailand. His Thai pork meatballs were part of a January 2020 comfort food column that also included lamb shoulder ragu with gnocchi, and Spanish chickpeas with black pudding, the recipes for both of which you'll also find in the link as they are perfect for this time of year. Confirming that there's little we like more than a one-tray oven baked dinner, Flynn's third most popular recipe of the year was for pork chops with roasted pears, sage, onion and gorgonzola. Lilly Higgins kept family dinners interesting, and simple, from her kitchen in Cobh where her own young family are her inspiration, and her critics. Her three most popular recipes of 2020 are topped by her smoked haddock gratin, which she describes as "fish pie without the faff". Sold. We also enjoyed making her home made pizza, which had lots of vegetables blended into (and hidden in) the tomato sauce. More recently, Higgins also shared a recipe for a Chicago-style pizza, if you prefer a thicker base. Vegetables are also at the heart of her third most read recipe, for Mediterranean vegetable lasagne which has an interesting cheese layer with egg, ricotta, mozzarella and Parmesan instead of bechamel. Many of us may have seen more of our kitchens than usual this past year. We were delighted to team up with Euro-Toques Ireland and some of its member chefs at the start of the spring lockdown, to bring you a recipe each weekday. Eventually we had a collection of 100 recipes for easy, midweek dishes that chefs cook at home. You can access them all here. Thank you for reading and cooking along with us in 2020. We hope we have kept you inspired and interested. |
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