Five foolproof tricks for cooking even better pasta - Salon

Five foolproof tricks for cooking even better pasta - Salon
Local Cook of the Week: Earl Binnings shares his Down Home Gumbo - Houma Courier
Fish Amandine for changing up your cooking | Lifestyle - Olean Times Herald

Posted: 09 Jan 2021 10:30 AM PST

Pasta Social Club is a column by Meryl Feinstein, Food52's Resident Pasta Maker, community builder, and pastaia extraordinaire. Meryl will teach us about everything from semolina to spaghetti to sauce (and all the tools you'll need for each) — and will show us how pasta is a great way to make great friends and have lots of fun.

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A box of pasta is a beautiful thing. It has your back when there's nothing left in the kitchen but an old tube of tomato paste and a few cloves of garlic. It's perfect for when you're short on time, but it's also best friends with the Sunday sauce that's been simmering on the stove for hours. And nothing beats that al dente bite.

If you've come across any of my recipes, you probably know about my deep love of fresh pasta. So I wouldn't blame you for thinking I don't have any interest in the dried stuff. But that couldn't be further from the truth. I love fresh pasta because the process of making it is therapeutic and brings people together. And I love dried pasta because it's quick, versatile, and best suited to some of my favorite classic dishes (looking at you, cacio e pepe). Both are spectacularly delicious. They're just very different.

I could talk endlessly about the dried pasta shapes I love most (bucatini, paccheri), or the boxed brands that fill my cupboards (mostly De Cecco, some Pastificio G. Di Martino and Rustichella D'Abruzzo for special occasions). But I'll spare you that spiel. Instead I want to share the tips I live by for cooking a perfect pot of pasta.

Let's talk about salt

You've no doubt heard the phrase "salt your pasta water like the sea." Here's the truth: sea water is gross. I've salted my pasta water like the sea plenty of times, and even I (with a high salt tolerance) couldn't get past the second bite. So, like Chef Evan Funke, I'll revise that mantra to "season your pasta water like a soup."

Adding salt to your cooking water is the only time you're seasoning the pasta itself, so this step is especially important for a well-rounded dish. There are plenty of resources that tell you exactly how much salt to add to various amounts of water. I can never be bothered to measure my water (who has the time?), so I eyeball it. It's something like a palmful — those little salt grinders aren't going to cut it. Just know that different types of salt have different levels of saltiness; for example, your two tablespoons of Morton's will be far saltier than my two tablespoons of Diamond Crystal.

The best test? When you taste your pasta during the cooking process to see if it's done, it should taste pleasantly salty. It's sort of like the Goldilocks approach: if the pasta tastes bland, add some more salt; if it actually tastes like the ocean, dilute it with a bit of water and hold back some salt from your sauce. If it tastes like a piece of pasta with a little salt sprinkled on top, then you've nailed it. It takes some trial and error, but it makes all the difference.

Oh, and one more thing: Add your salt right before you drop the pasta into the water. If you add it earlier than this, it'll concentrate as water evaporates, leaving you with a result far saltier than anticipated.

Skip the olive oil

I know I'm not the only one who grew up adding a splash of olive oil to their pasta water. I was told this prevented the noodles from sticking together, and also gave them a little extra flavor. But drizzling oil into the cooking water actually works against you when you're finishing your dish.

As pasta cooks, it releases starch. The starchy water you're left with is a perfect thickener for sauces, and it's also a sort of glue that helps the sauce and pasta stick together (more on that below). If there's olive oil in the mix, you'll be left with a slick coating on the surface of the pasta. And your delicious sauce won't hug each noodle like it should — instead, it'll slide right off.

To keep things from clumping together, simply stir the pasta for a few seconds once you've added it to the pot, and again every so often throughout the cooking process.

Finding al dente

To determine its proper seasoning (see above) and doneness, always taste your pasta as it cooks. For dried pastas, the goal is generally "al dente," which means "to the tooth." Simply put, al dente pasta bites back. It has a satisfying texture and resistance; it's not mushy or gummy.

The number of minutes it takes to get to al dente varies. For small and thin pastas, that time will be shorter than large and dense shapes. Plus, not all brands of pasta are processed the same way, and those production methods also impact the pasta's cook time. I've had Trader Joe's penne that cooks in half the time it takes for a box of Rustichella D'Abruzzo.

The recommended cooking time on the box can also be unreliable. So here's what I do: A few minutes into the cooking process, pull out a piece of pasta and bite into it to see how far along it is. Repeat this with a new piece every minute or so. You'll see a white line on the inside where the pasta is still raw. Al dente pasta will still have a little bit of that line when it's done. (It's often several minutes before the package says it will be.) Personally, I prefer my pasta verging on undercooked — even before al dente — because it means I can finish cooking it for a minute or two in the sauce to bring everything together.

Save the water

We all know that pasta water isn't just for boiling noodles. It's also an ingredient unto itself, and it's essential when making some of Italy's best-loved dishes. Cacio e pepe, easily my favorite classic pasta dish (did I mention that already?), relies on that starchy water to transform a pile of cheese and pepper into the world's most luxurious sauce. What's more, a few spoonfuls of pasta water will help emulsify any sauce, from brown butter to bolognese, into glossy perfection. You'll never find me without it.

I used to reserve the amount of pasta water a recipe would suggest, and then drain my pasta. But I kept finding myself running out of that precious liquid far too soon. Now I skip the colander altogether and use either tongs or a large slotted spoon to transfer my pasta directly from water to sauce. (You can also grab an Italian pasta pot with the colander built right in!) I've never had a shortage since.

The same advice goes for rinsing: Don't do it! Splashing cold water on your cooked pasta will wash away that beautiful starch, which won't do your sauce any favors.

The marriage of pasta and sauce

One of the chefs I worked for in New York waxed poetic about the marriage of pasta and sauce. It's easy to see why. When the two work together, this simple combination assumes its highest form.

First, a little recap: Season and save your water, skip the olive oil (and the rinsing!), and aim for al dente. Then it's time to make that marriage happen. Shortly before the pasta's ready, vigorously stir a few spoonfuls of starchy pasta water into your sauce until it becomes glossy and slightly thickened. When the pasta is just shy of al dente, add it directly to the sauce and finish cooking it for a minute or two so it can soak up all those delicious flavors.

You'll wonder how you cooked pasta any other way.

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Posted: 10 Jan 2021 04:01 AM PST

Earl Binnings, 38, is as Cajun as Cajun can be.

The Thibodaux resident grew up on a plantation near Lafourche Crossing, where he spent the better part of his childhood hunting on the property, mostly ducks and doves, he said.

And like a true Cajun, he learned to cook from his grandmother. He makes his favorite dish, Down Home Gumbo, for his family, his wife Caroline and daughters Kennedy and Elizabeth.

We asked Earl about his love affair with cooking and family. The following are the edited answers to our questions, as well as his take on the most Louisiana of foods, gumbo.

Share a little history about yourself, and how it relates to cooking.

I guess the cooking started like most youngsters, watching Grandma and other cooks around the house. I would watch my grandmother prepare meals and constantly nag my uncle as to what he was doing. I think by the time I was 14 years old I was harvesting, cleaning and preparing all fish and game taken on the property.

I have a background in the service industry as a bartender/server and that definitely had an impact on me. I can remember after-hours cocktails in the lounge at Cristiano's where Jeremy Carroll and Cristiano both took time explaining to me that dining out was not just grabbing a bite, but more the experience and the appreciation for good food along with the pairing of a good wine.

How important is preparing good food to you and your family?

Preparing food is what I do, it's what I live for.

Every weekend I am thinking, what can I cook next and what can I pair with it? I am pretty sure that my wife thinks there is something wrong with me. She's not a really big eater so a lot of the time I prepare food to give away, freeze or eat for the week. For example, being an avid outdoors man, I can do a smoked AJ dip, two smoked speckle-belly geese on a Saturday and a brisket on Sunday.

I believe that in this day and age kids eat too much processed food. I feel that meats and vegetables, especially fresh, are the foundation to a good balanced diet. I also feel that having your children interactive in the kitchen helps prepare them for the future of preparing their own meals, as well as carrying on legacies and experiences that will never fade.

What is your favorite dish to cook, and your favorite to eat, if different?

First thing I ever learned to cook was a fried egg and the second thing was a pecan pie with which Grandmother Sally assisted. After that, with age and interest changes, so did my menu. I would help my dad boil seafood and watch my Uncle Todd make stews and gumbos. My Grandmother Freida was born and raised in Germany, so a lot of my pastry background and love of Bavarian foods come from that side. My grandmother has since passed, but here recipes live through my mother Susan who whips up a serious Oktoberfest feast among other things.

Do you like to be creative with recipes and invent your own, or do you prefer to cook traditional favorites? And why?

To answer that question, it would really just depend on what I am craving that day. I love slow cooking, smoked meats and gumbos, because it usually involves gatherings. I love any and all seafood. I mean all crustaceans, pelagic fish reef fish, fish eggs, etc.

How has your cooking and eating changed during the pandemic?

My cooking hasn't changed since the pandemic. I did catch COVID back in September, but once I was cleared and issued a clean bill of health I went right back to the usual.

Do you have a family cooking memory that is special to you?

I had entered to cook my breakfast gumbo at the 2008 Thibodeauxville cookoff. After the presentation portion for the public to purchase, I presented the judges with my product and thought that all though the crowd seemed to really like it; it probably wasn't going to win. So I took opportunity to run into Rox's to grab a beer and catch up with old friends. Well, let's say I caught up with just as many friends as beers, and couldn't accept my award because I was in the bar and couldn't hear them calling me to the stage. My cousin from Las Vegas had to except the award on stage for me and gave the interview for the Daily Comet. As the night came to the end, he caught up to me in the bathroom and was like, "Hey dude, what's up, here's your medal."

Louisiana is known for great food, especially seafood. What is about living in south Louisiana that inspires your cooking?

About 75 percent of what I cook is inspired by South Louisiana. I consider myself an outdoorsman with a good blend of fishing and hunting. I prepare fresh local game for my family whether it is fresh yellowfin tuna or smoked deer ham. We almost always eat from the land. I find that it's almost impossible to live in South Louisiana and not be influenced by the land or culture.

Earl Binnings Down Home Gumbo

Ingredients:

1 cup flour
1 cup cooking oil
1 lb. cubed ham
1 dozen large eggs
1 large yellow onion, diced
1 tablespoon Kitchen Bouquet
2 garlic cloves, minced
1 large bell pepper, diced
2 stalks celery, minced
1/2 lb. bacon, cubed and browned
2 cans chicken stock
2 cups water
4 bay leaves
1 tablespoon crushed red pepper flakes
1/2 cup minced green onion
1 cup grits
1 package of jimmy dean sausage (sage, hot and spicy or regular), browned

Directions:

Add flour and oil to Dutch oven and constantly stir until it becomes a dark bronze roux.
Once desired color is reached stir in celery, onion, bell pepper and garlic and cook down.
Add chicken stock and water.
Add Kitchen Bouquet and stir in, making sure that it does not separate and sit on the surface.
Add half of the bacon, cooked sausage, bay leaves to mixture
Bring to boil, reduce to simmer, cook gumbo for 3 hours letting all ingredients come together
In a medium sauce pan, cook grits
Add green onion, the rest of the cooked bacon and crushed red pepper flakes to grits and simmer until the grits are the consistency of mashed potatoes
When grits are starting to simmer beat the eggs and pour them into the gumbo on medium heat
When grits are cooked, season to taste and serve in center of grits like mashed potatoes and gravy

What advice would you have for someone who is interested in the art of cooking?

Cooking is a hobby of passion, it's a lifestyle. I would make sure they realize that it's trial and error, to explore and do new things. Try cooking different styles. It's always great to cook grandma's chicken stew but sometimes it's nice to cook something different and exotic to explore new spices and techniques. I would also recommend using the best ingredients and having the best equipment. I have so many different pieces of equipment and they all serve a purpose.

Fish Amandine for changing up your cooking | Lifestyle - Olean Times Herald

Posted: 09 Jan 2021 09:28 AM PST

I have had so much chicken lately, and I know there are one thousand wonderful recipes for chicken, but I like to change up my meals once in a while.

Fish Amandine is great way to do just that. Besides being a healthy dish, it is also very nutritious — I wouldn't give you anything but.

I prefer perch for this recipe and you can find it in the frozen section of your market. Some of the filets are quite small so you may need two to make a single serving. You will be able to gauge it if you don't use a kitchen scale, which, by the way, I highly recommend. They are very inexpensive and can help you to cut your portions by determining the exact weight.

While I like perch, I can tell you that halibut and trout work just as well with this recipe. We have always been told that we should have fish twice a week. This is an easy fix for that adage. Fish is very low in calories and typically low in fat, depending on the kind of fish. The fattier fish, like salmon, have more fat, but it is the good kind, so you can't go wrong.

Pair this fish with green beans, add a piece of fruit and you have a complete meal. I think you'll find it to be a delicious addition to your menu files.

FISH AMANDINE (serves 4)

Ingredients

4 (4-5 oz) fresh or frozen skinless perch, trout or halibut fillets, 1/2- to 1-inch thick

1/4 cup buttermilk

1/2 cup panko bread crumbs or fine dry bread crumbs

2 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley or 2 teaspoons dried parsley flakes

1/2 teaspoon dry mustard

1/4 teaspoon Kosher salt

1/4 cup sliced almonds, coarsely chopped

2 tablespoons grated Parmesan cheese

1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil

1/8 teaspoon crushed red pepper

Directions

Thaw fish, if frozen. Preheat oven to 450 degrees F. Grease a shallow baking pan; set aside. Rinse fish; pat dry with paper towels. Measure thickness of fish.

Pour buttermilk into a shallow dish. In another shallow dish, combine bread crumbs, parsley, dry mustard and salt. Dip fish into buttermilk, then into crumb mixture, turning to coat. Place coated fish in the prepared baking pan.

Sprinkle fish with almonds and Parmesan cheese; drizzle with olive oil. Sprinkle with crushed red pepper. Bake 4 to 6 minutes per 1/2-inch thickness of fish or until fish flakes easily when tested with a fork.

Nutrition Facts

Serving Size: 4-5 Ounces

Per Serving: 209 calories; protein 26.2g 52% DV; carbohydrates 6.7g 2% DV; dietary fiber 0.9g 4% DV; sugars 1g; fat 8.7g 13% DV; saturated fat 3.2g 16% DV; cholesterol 66.9mg 22% DV; vitamin a iu 287.5IU 6% DV; vitamin c 2.9mg 5% DV; folate 34.2mcg 9% DV; calcium 69.6mg 7% DV; iron 1.1mg 6% DV; magnesium 50mg 18% DV; potassium 413.8mg 12% DV; sodium 301.6mg 12% DV.

Exchanges: 31/2 Lean Protein, 1/2 Fat, 1/2 Starch

(Candy Work is a certified physician assistant and a registered dietician. She has practiced at Olean Medical Group since 2015.)

from What to Cook https://ift.tt/3q99lpU

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Five foolproof tricks for cooking even better pasta - Salon

Five foolproof tricks for cooking even better pasta - Salon

Earl Binnings Down Home Gumbo

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Five foolproof tricks for cooking even better pasta - Salon

Earl Binnings Down Home Gumbo

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