From Mauritius to Brazil: Yotam Ottolenghi's street food recipes - The Guardian |
- From Mauritius to Brazil: Yotam Ottolenghi's street food recipes - The Guardian
- Before No-Recipe Recipes, There Was Mrs. Levy’s ‘Jewish Cookery’ Cookbook - Eater
- 32 Healthy Cauliflower Recipes - Creative Ways to Eat Cauliflower - Prevention.com
- Egg recipes for when you’re scrambling for dinner - The Boston Globe
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From Mauritius to Brazil: Yotam Ottolenghi's street food recipes - The Guardian Posted: 20 Feb 2021 01:30 AM PST I love everything about street food. I love moving along as part of a crowd, being led by the smells and the sizzles. I love eating with my hands, and portions that are just small enough in size to leave room to try something else, another smell and another sizzle, farther along. I love trying new things, travelling around the world via my tastebuds. I love the vendors, the energy, the chats with fellow feasters. While the silence currently hangs heavy on our street food scene, set up a stall at home: I'm going to Mauritius (again) and Brazil this week, Ghana and Venezuela next. Jackfruit kati roll (pictured above)Jackfruit grows wild all over Mauritius and is given away freely to neighbours, friends and family. Fortunately, tinned jackfruit works nicely in this dish, but if need be you could use tinned chickpeas instead. Prep 15 min For the roti For the jackfruit curry Put the flour, carom seeds and a teaspoon and a quarter of salt in a medium bowl, and mix well. Make a well in the middle, add the ghee and the water, and mix with a wooden spoon until it comes together into a dough. By this stage, the mix will be hot, but fine to handle, so tip it out on to a lightly floured work surface and knead for a minute, until the dough comes together into a smooth ball. Return to the bowl, cover with a damp tea towel and leave to rest at room temperature for 30 minutes. Meanwhile, start on the curry. Set a large saute pan for which you have a lid on a medium heat, add the ghee, and melt. Add the onions, garlic, ginger, chilli, curry leaves and chopped coriander stalks, and fry, stirring often, for 12-14 minutes, until the onions have softened. Add the cumin seeds and curry powder, cook, stirring, for another two minutes, then add the tomatoes, jackfruit, lemon zest and juice, boiling water and a teaspoon of salt. Cover with a lid and cook, stirring occasionally, for 30 minutes, until all the liquid has been absorbed, and the jackfruit is tender and has mostly broken up into strands (don't worry if the odd piece is still whole). While the jackfruit is cooking, divide the roti dough in four and use floured hands to roll each roughly 140g piece into a ball. Dust a work surface very well with some of the extra flour, then, using a floured rolling pin, roll out each ball of dough into a 24cm circle, pressing the pin into the middle of dough and pushing outwards as you roll it into a circle. It's essential to have a well-floured surface to stop the dough from sticking and to make rolling easier. Set a large frying (or roti) pan on a high heat. Once the pan is very hot, dust any excess flour off one roti and place it in the pan. Brush the top of the roti generously with melted ghee, leave to cook for two minutes, until bubbles form and the underside is golden in patches, then flip over, brush the cooked side with more ghee and cook for a minute longer. Remove the cooked roti and set aside somewhere warm, wipe the pan with kitchen paper, then repeat with the remaining roti and ghee. To assemble the kati rolls, spread some yoghurt on a roti, then spoon a quarter of the curry mix on top. Sprinkle over some coriander leaves, then roll up the roti tightly, a bit like you would a burrito. Serve warm with any leftover yoghurt on the side for dipping. Prawn and cream cheese pasties This (very untraditional) take on a classic Brazilian bar snack combines prawns and cream cheese inside a deep-fried pastry. I've used shop-bought puff pastry for ease, Philadelphia for accessibility (the brand most commonly used in Brazil is Catupiry, which you can buy online) and baked the pasties instead, not least so you can make more of them at the same time. In Brazil, these are called pasteis, but I've called them pasties as a nod to them being a similar concept. Prep 15 min 1 x 320g sheet ready-rolled all-butter puff pastry, chilled For the filling Heat the oven to 220C (200C fan)/425F/gas 7. Mix the first six filling ingredients in a bowl with a third of a teaspoon of salt, then stir in the Philadelphia, but don't mix it in completely: you want pieces of cheese dotted throughout the mix, rather than a homogenous mass. Lay the puff pastry sheet on a floured surface and give it a couple of rolls with a rolling pin to thin it out a little bit more. Using a round 10cm cutter, stamp out as many pastry circles as you can – you should get seven or so – and place them on a large baking tray. Gather up the scraps, re-roll and cut again, to give you three more pastry circles, and 10 in total. Place these on the tray, too. Spoon about 30g of the prawn and cheese filling in the centre of each pastry circle, brush the exposed pastry with egg wash, and fold over the pastry to make half-moons. Press together the edges of the pastry with the back of a fork, to seal, then arrange on a large baking sheet lined with greaseproof paper, spacing them well apart. Cut a couple of small slits into each pasty so the steam can escape, brush the pasties all over with the egg wash, then bake for 25 minutes; rotate the tray once halfway, so they colour evenly. Serve the pasties hot from the oven with lime wedges and your favourite hot sauce alongside.  |
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Before No-Recipe Recipes, There Was Mrs. Levy’s ‘Jewish Cookery’ Cookbook - Eater Posted: 19 Feb 2021 08:28 AM PST  The full title of Mrs. Levy's book, as it appears on the cover, is Mrs. Esther Levy's Jewish Cookery Book on Principles of Economy Adapted for Jewish Housekeepers With Medical Recipes and Other Valuable Information Relative to Housekeeping and Domestic Management and Being the First Jewish Cookbook Published in America as Published in Philadelphia, 1871. Ludicrously long by modern standards, the cookbook's title seems even more laughable once you flip through the recipes: They look abridged, written in a kind of cooking shorthand. Measurements, if they're included at all, may call for "enough" or "good sized pieces." Instructions — such as "let [the onions] cook to take the strength out of them," "the addition of a piece of beef would improve the flavor," and "when it has fermented properly" — rely on a similarly terse brand of intuition. But it's their very brevity and ambiguity that make Mrs. Levy's 150-year-old recipes look a lot like the paragraph-style "no-recipes" that have become popular on digital food outlets and in email newsletters during the last few years. A reaction to the glut of overly technical recipes, no-recipes take a contrarian stance to the gospel of optimization, offering recognition to overworked home cooks already exhausted by Wednesday night. They prioritize speed without too much fuss over cup measures or baking times. The Jewish Cookery Book is fascinating for all the ways it feels at once familiar and foreign, even to a Jewish reader acquainted with Mrs. Levy's religious dining instructions (if not her prescriptive rhetoric on gender roles). Mrs. Levy, nee Jacobs, is a bit of a mysterious figure. Nearly every reference to her book — including the one on the back of my 1988 reprint — is accompanied by the statement that "not much is known about the book's author." So the book stands on its own merits. Jewish Cookery shows its age in dishes like giblet pudding, "old" pea soup, and calf's pluck with margen (stewed offal), along with its requirements of its audience: A reader will need to stock saleratus, sago, and suet; measure liquid by the wine glass; preserve butter for winter; and boil pudding in a tied-up cloth (a method some British readers might recognize as "shirt-sleeve pudding" or "dead man's arm"). As its unabridged title promises, the book is not merely a cookbook: Its "Other Valuable Information" includes a housekeeping section where you can learn to "give a gloss to shirt bosoms," make pomatum (hair oil) from scented beef marrow and lard, put out a fire on another person, and "destroy" roaches with snuff. You take your life into your own hands wading through the medical recipes section, where there's both a regular cure for cholera (soda, cinnamon, clove, brandy, sugar) and a "good cure" that includes Hoffman's anodyne (ether) and laudanum (opium). For all its oddities, the book hangs together with a certain logic if you spend enough time with it. Mrs. Levy addresses her book to young Jewish American women, essentially newlyweds or soon-to-be-weds unprepared for the domestic duties thrust upon them. I can't help but imagine this target reader as someone like the "Young Wife," the satirical still life painted 17 years earlier by Lilly Martin Spencer, an artist who portrayed the travails of newlywed life. "There is no opportunity for attaining a knowledge of family management at school," Mrs. Levy frets in her introduction. "The direction of a table is no inconsiderable branch of a lady's business, as it involves judgment of expenditure, respectability of appearance, the comfort of one's household, and of those who partake of the hospitality thereof." She is equally concerned that parents aren't adequately passing down customs. "If the daughters of the family were to take the head of the table, under the direction of their mother, they would fulfill its duties with grace," she writes. That would obviate the need for a book like this, but she exclaims elsewhere, "The want of a work of this description has long been felt in our domestic circles." So Mrs. Levy took it upon herself to provide immigrants and their offspring with a crucial link to their ancestral food practices. Included among her many instructions in the book are how to properly set a table, follow specific rules for holidays, and arrange a menu for a whole week. At the same time, Mrs. Levy helped immigrants learn to integrate Jewish dietary laws with the global foodways they encountered in the American melting pot, something (fittingly) evident in the soup section, which includes tweaked recipes for gumbo, mulligatawny, and pepper pot. A generation later, cookbooks devoted to Jewish-American cooking, like the more famous 1901 Settlement Cookbook by Lizzie Black Kander, reflected a more complicated relationship with integration, specifically the fear among established German Jewish immigrants that the Eastern European Jews then entering the country would reflect poorly on all Jews and spur anti-Semitism. Pressure for immigrants to Americanize was coded into the Settlement Cookbook, which included education about American cultural norms but few Jewish recipes. By contrast, Mrs. Levy's encouragement seems more optimistic, promising her readers they can merge culinary traditions while preserving their heritage. She neutralized the temptation of sumptuous American foods considered treif (or not kosher) by creating kosher versions so that no one would have to miss out on the fun of an aspirational American appetite, even developing a Charlotte-style dessert with matzo for Passover. "The contents of our Book show how various and how grateful to the taste are the viands of which we may lawfully partake," she writes. In this context, the book's format makes sense. Rather than offer complex recipes for individual dishes, Mrs. Levy teaches by repetition, like a parent might. There are over 40 recipes for puddings, and only by reading all of them does a reader begin to learn the basic components of pudding, get a feel for texture, and internalize the methodologies. A relatively extensive recipe may feature a key detail that is then applied in another recipe, but Mrs. Levy doesn't always explicitly connect the two. There are no page references, no shortcuts; you just have to find both recipes in your own time. It's an empirical approach, full of trial and error, almost like learning to play music by ear. Outlets that produce modern paragraph-style recipes lean away from this parental instinct, instead acknowledging the independence of home cooks and the quotidian realities that prevent them from prioritizing cooking. But these non-recipes only do so much for amateurs. You have to know how to cook to some degree before you can disregard recipes altogether, and there is little motivation to push through the cacophony of internet cooking advice until you have achieved that mastery. The Jewish Cookery Book can just as easily feel frustrating to novices (which in this case includes anyone not versed in 150-year-old cooking lingo and customs). But the recipes provide reassurance through their number and cohesion. If the author's own encouragement isn't enough, the recipes collectively tell you to keep going. Or, as Mrs. Levy says, "Be careful to observe these rules, and you will succeed."  |
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32 Healthy Cauliflower Recipes - Creative Ways to Eat Cauliflower - Prevention.com Posted: 19 Feb 2021 01:46 PM PST  Who knew that cauliflower—with its plain, unassuming white florets—would become one of the sexiest vegetables of the 21st century? Just look at the menu of any creative, plant-friendly restaurant, and you'll find cauliflower steaks, cauliflower salads, and about a million versions of cauliflower rice bowls. "Cauliflower has become so popular not only because of its many nutritional benefits, but because it's really versatile—there are so many ways to use it in the kitchen," says Kara Lydon, R.D., a Boston-based dietitian, food blogger, and author of Nourish Your Namaste. "Also, more and more people are going plant-based, and cauliflower makes a really easy substitute for animal-based ingredients." Cauliflower is both low in calories (just 29 calories per 1-cup serving) and jam-packed with nutrients, like all cruciferous vegetables (a category of slightly bitter-tasting veggies that includes broccoli, Brussels sprouts, kale, cabbage, arugula, and collard greens). "It's high in fiber, choline (an essential nutrient for brain health), and antioxidants including vitamin C," Lydon explains. It's also rich in vitamin K, which is important for building strong bones. The trendiest way to eat cauliflower these days is to turn it into a vitamin-rich version of rice. Lydon recommends you do this by cutting it into florets and giving it a quick pulse in the food processor. Mashed cauliflower also can also be used as a healthier replacement for mashed potatoes, and cauliflower can even serve as the secret ingredient in a gluten-free alternative for a pizza crust. The texture and bite of cauliflower florets also make it a popular plant-based alternative for chicken wings and steak. Then, there's the simple-but-delicious route to prepare the white treat: "My favorite way to prepare cauliflower is to simply roast it in the oven with olive oil and spices," says Lydon. "It's subtly sweet and with a little nutty flavor." Ready to get creative with this all-star veggie? Check out dozens of must-try, healthy cauliflower recipes below: This content is created and maintained by a third party, and imported onto this page to help users provide their email addresses. You may be able to find more information about this and similar content at piano.io  |
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Egg recipes for when you’re scrambling for dinner - The Boston Globe Posted: 19 Feb 2021 02:38 PM PST Advertisement In traditional Spanish huevos rotos, or "broken eggs," fried eggs are served on fried potatoes, along with serrano ham or chorizo. The yolks are broken so that they flow onto the food, creating a rich sauce. We precook the potatoes in the microwave, then crisp them in olive oil; the eggs are cooked in the skillet directly on top of the potatoes. Use small red or white potatoes here, as their skins add flavor without toughness. If you can find only large potatoes, choose a thin-skinned variety, such as Yukon Gold, and cut them into ¾-inch pieces (leaving the peels on). 1½ pounds small red or white potatoes (about 1½ inches in diameter), quartered 2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil 1 large yellow onion, finely chopped 2 tablespoons sherry vinegar Kosher salt and ground black pepper 4 medium garlic cloves, minced 8 ounces chopped serrano ham, or cured chorizo, quartered lengthwise and sliced ¼-inch thick 1 large poblano chili, stemmed, seeded, quartered lengthwise, and cut crosswise into strips 6 large eggs 1 scallion, thinly sliced on bias Hot sauce, to serve Place the potatoes in a large microwave-safe bowl. Cover and microwave on high until tender, about 10 minutes, stirring halfway through. Let cool slightly and, using a potato masher, gently crush them until slightly flattened but still in large chunks. If the potatoes are too firm to flatten, cover and microwave again until tender, then crush. Advertisement In a 12-inch nonstick skillet over medium-high heat, add the oil and heat until smoking. Add the potatoes in an even layer and cook without stirring until crisp on the bottom, about 5 minutes. Stir, redistribute in an even layer, and cook until crisp on the bottom, another 5 minutes. Stir in the onion, vinegar, and ½ teaspoon salt. Cook, stirring, until the onion has softened, about 5 minutes. Add the garlic, ham or chorizo, and chili, then cook, stirring constantly, until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Distribute the mixture in an even layer and reduce heat to medium-low. Using the back of a large spoon, make 6 evenly spaced indentations in the potatoes, each about 2 inches in diameter. Crack 1 egg into each indentation, then sprinkle with salt and pepper. Cover and cook until the egg whites are set but the yolks are still runny, 4 to 6 minutes. Sprinkle the scallion over the top. Using a paring knife, cut a small X in the top of each egg and allow the yolk to flow out. Serve with hot sauce. Chorizo and Potato Hash Makes 4 servings Guisado de chorizo con papas, or Mexican chorizo and potato stew, inspires this simple, hearty one-skillet dish. Chorizo sausage is spicy, so if you're sensitive to heat, you may want to remove the seeds from the jalapeño before slicing. Instead of Spanish chorizo, which, similar to salami, is dry-cured and firm, opt for the Mexican variety, which is a fresh sausage. It is often sold in links but sometimes in bulk. Either works in this recipe, but if you're using link chorizo, the casing will need to be removed. Advertisement Serve this topped with runny-yolk fried eggs. Or, use it as a taco filling with warmed tortillas, with sour cream or crumbled cotija cheese on the side. 2 tablespoons grape-seed or other neutral oil 1 pound Yukon Gold potatoes, cut into ½-inch pieces 1 medium yellow onion, roughly chopped 4 medium garlic cloves, chopped 2 teaspoons sweet paprika 2 teaspoons ground cumin 2 teaspoons dried oregano Kosher salt and ground black pepper 12 ounces fresh chorizo, casing removed, pinched into bite-size pieces (see headnote) 1 large jalapeño chili, stemmed and sliced into thin rounds In a 12-inch nonstick skillet over medium-high heat, add the oil and warm until shimmering. Add the potatoes in an even layer and cook until well browned, 4 to 5 minutes, stirring only once about halfway through. Reduce to medium heat and cook, stirring frequently, until a paring knife inserted into the largest pieces of potato meets no resistance, 3 to 4 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, transfer to a paper towel-lined plate; set aside. Do not wipe out the pan. Add the onion and garlic to the pan and cook over medium heat, stirring occasionally, until the onion has softened, 4 to 6 minutes. Stir in the paprika, cumin, oregano, and ¼ teaspoon pepper. Add the chorizo and cook, stirring frequently, until lightly browned all over, about 3 minutes. Pour in ½ cup water and bring to a simmer, then cover and cook until the pieces of chorizo are no longer pink at the center, another 4 to 5 minutes. Advertisement Uncover and cook until a spoon drawn through the sauce leaves a brief trail, 1 to 2 minutes. Stir in the potatoes and jalapeño, then cook, stirring occasionally, until warmed through, 1 to 2 minutes. Taste and season with salt and pepper. 
Macanese Meat-and-Potato Hash (Minchi) Makes 4 servings This classic Macanese hash can be served for dinner, lunch, or breakfast. Variations abound, but minchi usually consists of minced meat and fried potatoes seasoned with soy and Worcestershire sauces. Fresh ginger, not a usual player, brightens up the mix. Sometimes served with rice, minchi, like any hash, begs to be topped with a fried egg and a squeeze of sriracha. Take care not to fully cook the potatoes in the microwave; they should be almost tender so they don't turn to mush in the skillet. 1¾ pounds Yukon Gold potatoes, peeled and cut into ½-inch cubes Kosher salt and ground pepper 12 ounces ground pork 3 tablespoons finely grated fresh ginger 2 tablespoons packed dark brown sugar 2 tablespoons tomato paste 6 scallions, thinly sliced, white and green parts reserved separately 3 tablespoons grape-seed or other neutral oil, divided Advertisement 2 tablespoons soy sauce 2 tablespoons Worcestershire sauce 2 tablespoons unseasoned rice vinegar ½ cup fresh cilantro leaves, chopped In a large microwave-safe bowl, combine the potatoes, ¾ teaspoon salt, and ¼ cup water. Cover with plastic wrap and microwave on high until almost tender, about 5 minutes, stirring halfway through. Drain the potatoes. In a medium bowl, stir together the pork, ginger, sugar, tomato paste, scallion whites, and ¾ teaspoon pepper. In a 12-inch nonstick skillet over medium heat, add 1 tablespoon of the oil and heat until shimmering. Add the pork mixture and, using a wooden spoon, break into small pieces. Cook, stirring once or twice, until lightly browned, 5 minutes. Transfer to a clean bowl and wipe out the skillet. Set the skillet over medium-high heat, add the remaining 2 tablespoons of oil, and heat until shimmering. Add the potatoes and cook, stirring and adjusting the heat as needed, until browned and crisped, about 15 minutes. Return the pork to the skillet and add the soy and Worcestershire sauces and rice vinegar. Toss, then stir in half each of the scallion greens and cilantro. Taste, season with salt and pepper, then transfer to a serving dish and sprinkle with the remaining scallions and cilantro. Christopher Kimball is the founder of Milk Street, home to a magazine, school, and radio and television shows. Globe readers get 12 weeks of complete digital access, plus two issues of Milk Street print magazine, for just $1. Go to 177milkstreet.com/globe. Send comments to magazine@globe.com.  |
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