What to Cook Right Now - The New York Times |
- What to Cook Right Now - The New York Times
- COOKING WITH THE SNAP - White Bean Chicken Chili - The Stanly News & Press - Stanly News & Press
- 13 Spring Recipes to Add to Your Cooking List - The New York Times
- Cooking with Offspring - My New Orleans
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What to Cook Right Now - The New York Times Posted: 10 Mar 2021 07:30 AM PST  Good morning. I've been talking a lot about no-recipe recipes recently, in advance of the publication of "New York Times Cooking: No-Recipe Recipes" next week, and my colleague Tina Jordan reached out to me the other day with a stellar one. It's for a fiery weeknight pasta dish with brussels sprouts and diced bacon. Here's Tina: "Dice a whole bunch of bacon or pancetta (how much depends on how many people you're cooking for; personally I think the more, the better). Set it frying in a very large skillet or Dutch oven. Meanwhile, set a pot of water to boil and begin chiffonading a pound or two of brussels sprouts (again, depends on how many people you're serving). If you don't have brussels sprouts, slice up a head of broccoli, though it's much better with brussels sprouts. When the bacon is done, remove it with a slotted spoon to drain and crisp up. If there's more than a tablespoon or two of bacon fat in the skillet, remove the excess. Don't drain off too much, though; you need some fat. "Dump the brussels sprouts in the bacon fat and add a good amount of crushed red pepper (to taste I suppose, but the dish needs the kick of the red pepper). Around this time, your water's going to be boiling, so use whatever pasta you'd like (this works well with skinny stuff, like thin spaghetti). Meanwhile, keep tossing the thinly sliced brussels sprouts in the pan until they're browned and a little crispy. Dress with the juice of at least one lemon, toss in the hot cooked pasta and a whole bunch of freshly grated Parm, and combine, adding a little pasta water if you need it. Top with the cooked diced bacon or pancetta and eat right away." Doesn't that sound grand? It might be just the thing for a Wednesday dinner. For later in the week, Yewande Komolafe has a great article in The Times about swallows, the staple food of mashed roots or tubers that takes many forms throughout regional African and Afro-Caribbean cuisines. In it, she explores both traditional preparations of swallows and modern options, like the fufu that's common in the diaspora. Naturally, there's a recipe attached to the article, and I hope you'll make it soon: fufu (swallows), typically served with a vegetable soup like efo riro and, in this case, topped with braised goat (above). If you're going to be celebrating St. Patrick's Day next week, it's time to start thinking about your corned beef. I like at least a five-day cure on mine. Then you can cook the meat with cabbage and carrots for the holiday or, as I do, shred it to use in Irish tacos. Other things to cook tonight or real soon: sheet-pan roasted mushrooms and spinach; lentils diavolo; sour cream chicken enchiladas. And would you take a look at this ginger-dill salmon as well? Or this fine pasta e ceci? Thousands and thousands more recipes await you on NYT Cooking. Go noodle around over there and see what strikes your fancy. Save the recipes you like, something you can do even if they don't come for our site — here's how to do that. Rate the ones you've made. And please do leave notes on them if you've discovered a cool shortcut or ingredient substitution, or if you have an observation about the recipe that you'd like to remember or share with fellow subscribers. Yes, fellow subscribers. You need to be a subscriber to enjoy all the benefits of NYT Cooking. Your subscription is what makes NYT Cooking possible. Please, if you haven't already, I hope you will consider subscribing today. We are meanwhile standing by to help, should anything go wrong in your kitchen or our technology. Just write cookingcare@nytimes.com. Someone will get back to you, I promise. Now, it's a long, long way from cardamom and pears, but you've got to read Hugo Lindgren's epic story about the Jamestown Jackals, a working-class professional basketball team. It's in GQ, though it was originally published by Victory Journal. I loved every word of Stella Bugbee's paean to Zizmorcore in New York Magazine, which took me back to Canal Jean circa 1982. Here's Amanda Petrusich on Bessie Smith, in the Oxford American. Finally, to end where we started, I hope you'll join me and Melissa Clark next Tuesday, March 16, for a discussion of no-recipe recipes and how to use them! I'll be back on Friday.  |
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COOKING WITH THE SNAP - White Bean Chicken Chili - The Stanly News & Press - Stanly News & Press Posted: 11 Mar 2021 06:43 AM PST  Editor's Note: Let's celebrate the past with some of our favorite recipes of our grandparents, parents, aunts and uncles. Email bj.drye@stanlynewspress.com with recipes and a small story about the famous cooks that go with the recipe. Pictures can be included of the cook. White Bean Chicken Chili 2 Tablespoons olive oil Directions: From the Kitchen of Lori Ivey (Recipe shared by a friend)  |
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13 Spring Recipes to Add to Your Cooking List - The New York Times Posted: 10 Mar 2021 02:00 AM PST  The arrival of spring is always a most-welcome event, but, this year, its approach feels even more deserving of celebration. In honor of the warmer weather, bright blooms and vibrant farmers' markets on the horizon, you can and should make these ultimate spring dishes from NYT Cooking, which make the most of the season's verdant produce — and scream "Spring is here!" Don't think of store-bought frozen puff pastry as a cheat: It's merely a clever shortcut that brings you closer to cutting into this savory tart. Melissa Clark makes expert use of asparagus, that spring superstar, laying it over a tangy and herby crème fraîche base. The result is a dish that is as effortless as it is chic. And if you love the sound of a cheesy, herb-packed tart, but don't love asparagus, look no further than this showstopping feta-and-herb phyllo spiral from Yotam Ottolenghi. Spring's bounty of vegetables isn't the season's only important marker. It's also the start of grilling season. This recipe from Clare de Boer is a colorful way to celebrate both. Marinated chicken skewers share the spotlight — and the grill top — with a mess of bright scallions. Chicken and scallions alike are nicely charred before they're served atop grilled pitas and dolloped with herby, limey yogurt. For Samin Nosrat, a bowl of ash reshteh signals the arrival of spring. This herbaceous soup of beans, greens and noodles is served leading up to Nowruz, the Persian New Year, which coincides with the vernal equinox on March 20. Like the perfect cardigan, a warm pot of ash reshteh straddles the seasons: It's filled with pounds of fresh herbs, but is thick and hearty like a chili. Recipe: Ash Reshteh If canned artichokes are a staple in your winter pantry, then you're probably the type to rejoice when the fresh ones start popping up at stores and markets. Nothing beats simply steamed or roasted artichokes, and this recipe from April Bloomfield employs both methods. First the artichokes are steamed with white wine, then the pot is uncovered so that the liquid evaporates and the vegetables crisp. Capers and mint round out the dish. Do you hear that? That's the sound of forced rhubarb emerging from the ground — and of farmers' market attendees making their way toward baskets full of the vegetable. Once you've loaded up on tart and tangy stalks, turn to Melissa Clark, who has you covered with a truly piece-of-cake-easy, upside-down number. Recipes: Rhubarb Upside-Down Cake Think of this one-pot minestrone from Kay Chun as a blank canvas for your farmers' market treasures. Swap the green vegetables — asparagus, peas, kale — according to your tastes and what's available. Just don't skip the ginger, which adds a welcome zing to the light broth. For a soup with a similar sensibility, but without the pasta, try Alison Roman's spring tofu soup. Recipe: Spring Minestrone With Kale and Pasta | Spring Tofu Soup If a recipe calls for more vegetables than dumplings, does that make it a pasta or a salad? Make these ricotta dumplings with buttered spring vegetables from Alison Roman and decide for yourself. The doughy pillows are the perfect accompaniment for asparagus, peas and pea shoots, and they're a breeze to make. If cake's not your thing, perhaps you'd rather add Melissa Clark's 45-minute rhubarb and raspberry cobbler to the list instead. Her recipe features cornmeal biscuits, which come together just as easily whisked in a bowl as they do in a food processor. Or go all-in on rhubarb with a pie from Edna Lewis. In her recipe, adapted by Molly O'Neill, Ms. Lewis calls for only eight ingredients (two of which are salt and water). You'll find nary a berry in the mix — just fresh, chopped rhubarb kicked up with a bit of sugar and nutmeg. Recipe: Rhubarb Raspberry Cobbler With Cornmeal Biscuits | Edna Lewis's Rhubarb Pie Put some spring in your step with thinly sliced asparagus and a combination of fresh dill, mint and parsley. Ali Slagle takes this 20-minute orzo over the edge by adding garlicky bread crumbs and a super simple lemony dressing. Serve it warm for a light but comforting dinner, or at room temperature for more of an elevated pasta salad feel. At the risk of sounding like asparagus superfans, here's yet-another recipe where it's the star. Asparagus (obviously) and a lemony herb and arugula salad top this pizza-focaccia hybrid from Susan Spungen, and pancetta, green olives and serrano chiles make for a solid supporting ensemble. Using store-bought pizza dough means dinner can be ready in just 35 minutes.  |
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Cooking with Offspring - My New Orleans Posted: 11 Mar 2021 08:22 AM PST  Not long ago I bought my son a chef's knife. He's 19 and attending college virtually, but he's going to be there in-person before long and he's expressed an interest in cooking. Recently he asked whether we could get together and make a dish called confit biyaldi – it's the variation on ratatouille that was featured in the movie of the same name. I did a deep dive on ratatouille about five years ago, and I cooked multiple versions of the dish, including the rat's version, which is generally attributed to Chef Michel Guérard, one of the founders of nouvelle cuisine. I have a copy of one of Guérard's cookbooks, "Cuisine Minceur," about which I've written in the past. In that book, the chef took the "new" French cooking in a healthier direction, and frankly I find it more of a historical curiosity than something I use. Nouvelle Cuisine was, broadly, an attempt to break with what some chefs in France in the 1960's felt was the stifling rules of classic haute cuisine. Many of these chefs had traveled the world and they wanted to use ingredients and techniques not typically thought of as French. They wanted to move away from heavy sauces and they gave greater emphasis to an artistic plating of their food. It's hard to overstate how important Nouvelle Cuisine was to the way professional chefs cook today. It was a revolutionary movement and, sometimes, it went a bit far. Some chefs were too fond of serving small portions of food on huge plates, and then with cuisine minceur, Guérard tried to reduce the fat and other foods considered unhealthy even further. He was still French, so there's butter and olive oil in the food, but nowhere near the amount in classic recipes or even in dishes created by his contemporaries in the Nouvelle Cuisine movement. Confit Biyaldi is, however, glorious even if it's also pretty healthy. To make it, you use the primary ingredients in traditional, stewed ratatouille: eggplant, zucchini, yellow squash and tomatoes, and slice them very thinly before layering them over a piperade sauce and then slowly baking at a moderate temperature until the vegetables soften and the flavors meld. If you do a search online, you'll see many different approaches to the dish, and certainly won't claim mine is the best or even "authentic," whatever that means these days. What I really like about this dish in terms of cooking it with my son is that it allows me to explain a number of things in one dish. It's important to cut the vegetables and tomatoes not just thinly, but to a uniformly. Doing so allows the vegetables to become tender at the same time. It allows me to demonstrate the technique for making a sauce that ends up being blended or pureed; something he can use for multiple other sauces. It allows me to talk about the difference between high-heat, quick cooking and going low and slow. It lets me break out the mandoline, show him a couple of techniques for peeling tomatoes and use my brand new Vitamix blender. It's a great teaching recipe, and while it's not really the season for the dish, I was pleased as punch when he suggested making it with me. We made a lot of it, and it turned out pretty well. Mostly we just scooped it out of the pan, but I felt like we ought to make an attempt to plate one. I hope you get to cook with family, or if you're not able to due to current circumstances, that you can do so in the near future.  |
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