Regular vs. enameled cast iron: How they compare for cooking and cleaning - The Washington Post

Home

Regular vs. enameled cast iron: How they compare for cooking and cleaning - The Washington Post


Regular vs. enameled cast iron: How they compare for cooking and cleaning - The Washington Post

Posted: 26 Apr 2021 08:00 AM PDT

The good news for those tight on money or kitchen space is that most things that can be done in an enameled pot or pan can be done in traditional, well-seasoned cast iron, with a few adjustments. A lot of the major differences come down to caring for the pieces, though there are some things to keep in mind while cooking, too. Here's a rundown.

Price. If you're thinking about beefing up your cookware collection and money is a consideration, traditional cast iron is almost without exception cheaper than enameled pieces, sometimes several times less expensive, depending on size and brand. When treated properly, both types of cast iron can last a lifetime, and then some. Whether you spend a little or a lot, consider it a long-term investment.

Seasoning. Home cooks fear and love the seasoning on traditional cast iron. Seasoning is what happens when fats are heated to a certain point that causes them to polymerize, or reorganize into something resembling a plastic coating, and bond to the metal. While many pans come pre-seasoned, a little regular maintenance (oiling after cooking) and frequent cooking will help build up the patina. If the seasoning is damaged, more intensive care — a couple of rounds of oil application in the oven or on the stovetop — may be required. Eventually you'll get a naturally nonstick surface that rivals manufactured nonstick coatings. While enamel is useful in that it eliminates the pitted surface of cast iron where food can more readily get trapped and stick, it is not inherently nonstick and does not build up a seasoning. So each time you cook, you'll need a sufficient amount of fat to avoid stuck-on messes.

Heating. Enamel is less conductive than cast iron (which itself is less conductive than some other metals). That will change the rate at which the exterior of the pan — in which the cast iron is sandwiched between two coats of enamel — heats, according to David Green, an associate professor of materials science, chemical and mechanical engineering at the University of Virginia's School of Engineering & Applied Science. Compared to traditional cast iron, an enameled pan will heat up at a slightly slower pace, he says.

That being said, enamel can help with a more even distribution of heat, says Liheng Cai, Green's collaborator on a science of cooking class and an assistant professor of materials science, chemical and biomedical engineering. But that redistribution of heat is actually correcting the uneven nature of the burner rather than hotspots generated by the cast iron itself.

Being aware of the different heating properties is just half the battle. That "material mismatch," as Green calls it, can wreak havoc on the pan itself if not handled properly. On the direct heat of a burner, the metal will heat (and expand) faster than the enamel, Cai says, potentially creating stress on the enamel and resulting in cracking. That's more likely in cases when the pan experiences thermal shock, or a rapid change in temperature — one reason an enameled pan should not be heated empty on a burner. The same rationale applies to why you shouldn't hit a hot enameled pan with cold water, when the metal can contract faster than the enamel.

While regular cast iron is not as likely to crack, it's generally good practice to not plunge that type of hot pan in cold water, either. Rarely does thermal shock cause a preheating cast-iron skillet to crack, so unless you know you're dealing with a very unreliable burner, you can and should preheat it on the stovetop empty. That prevents the fat from breaking down or burning and ensures the food begins to crisp and brown as soon as it hits the surface.

Use with certain ingredients. Regular cast iron is reactive, meaning acidic ingredients (vinegar, tomatoes, etc.) can interact with the metal, imparting off flavors or color to the food. Reactions are less likely with well-seasoned pans, especially for dishes with brief cooking times, but it's something to keep in mind. Enamel is minimally reactive and acceptable for acidic foods.

Color. No, I'm not just talking about the exterior enamel colors that make many people swoon (but, hey, if you prefer enameled cookware for the aesthetics, go for it). Many enameled pieces have a pale, cream-colored interior, making it particularly easy to monitor the color of the flavorful fond (cooked-on juices) at the bottom of the pan or just check for burning. While it's not impossible to do in a traditional cast-iron pan — or black enameled pan — you just need to be more attentive to make sure you don't let things go too far. Something like caramel in a dark-colored pan can be trickier to judge by sight, as well, but in that case, an instant-read thermometer can be your friend.

Which to pick when. You may have pans of both types already in your kitchen, so which you pick may depend on what you're making. No-knead bread will work fine in Dutch ovens that are enameled or not (in this case, the gradual heating of the empty pot in the oven makes thermal shock unlikely). Searing a steak? Cai says you may be better-served with regular cast iron since it can be heated to a higher temperature, giving you a quickly crisped exterior and less well-done interior. Also think about whether you're cooking in a dry versus wet environment, Green says. In something like a stew or braise, the more even heat of an enameled pan can be especially beneficial for consistent cooking throughout the dish.

If you don't happen to have the pan called for in a recipe, all hope is not lost. Just keep in mind the points from above and adjust accordingly. Maybe you add a bit more fat going from a traditional seasoned to enameled cast iron. Perhaps you reduce the cook time going from enameled to traditional cast iron. Pay attention to the food and tweak as necessary.

Cleaning. Soap and water are often all you need for both types of pans. And, no, they won't remove the seasoning on your regular cast iron. Beware of more abrasive alternatives, though. A nylon scrubber or non-scratch sponge is fine, ditto chain-mail tools designed for the job, but scouring pads and cleaners such as Bar Keepers Friend can indeed damage seasoning. Kosher salt is coarse enough to help scrub stuck-on food without harming seasoning. Bar Keepers Friend and Bon Ami, however, are great for enameled cookware. Scouring pads or other coarse tools can scratch enamel. It's best to dry both types by hand after washing — to prevent rust in the case of regular cast iron and to prevent an enameled pan from being chipped, scratched or knocked over while sitting out to air-dry.

Epicurious stopped publishing beef recipes for 'sustainable cooking' - TODAY

Posted: 26 Apr 2021 06:39 PM PDT

In an effort to help their audience of at-home cooks be more environmentally friendly, digital magazine Epicurious will no longer share recipes made with beef.

The outlet made the announcement on Monday, though Epicurious had quietly slowed publishing new beef recipes since Fall 2019.

In several stories published on Monday, the outlet went on to explain why it is pushing forward an "effort to encourage more sustainable cooking."

"We know that some people might assume that this decision signals some sort of vendetta against cows—or the people who eat them. But this decision was not made because we hate hamburgers (we don't!)," a story written by David Tamarkin, the digital director emeritus, and Maggie Hoffman, a senior editor, reads. "Instead, our shift is solely about sustainability, about not giving airtime to one of the world's worst climate offenders. We think of this decision as not anti-beef but rather pro-planet."

In another article written by Epicurious editors, the outlet names three ways raising cattle contributes to climate change. Citing research from the Natural Resources Defense Council, the editors explain their beliefs that raising cattle is bad for the environment on every level of production. From the food needed to feed cattle — a "massive" amount of corn and soybeans — to cows digesting that food releasing methane in the form of belching and flatulence to the final product of that digestion, manure, releasing nitrous oxide and methane into the atmosphere, all parts of production, the editors argue, are harming the Earth.

The article cites an Environmental Protection Agency report that found agriculture — like raising cattle — accounts for about 10% of greenhouse gasses in the United States. It also points to large quantities of water being used to raise cattle, which is also a drain on natural resources.

"Of course, when it comes to the planet, eschewing beef is not a silver bullet," Tamarkin and Hoffman wrote. "All ruminant animals (like sheep and goats) have significant environmental costs, and there are problems with chicken, seafood, soy, and almost every other ingredient. In a food system so broken, almost no choice is perfect."

April 19, 202105:10

In the story, the two writers note how the move away from consuming cattle might feel "pointless" but it is all part of a larger goal.

"Addressing climate change requires legislation, international cooperation, and buy-in from the corporate sector," they wrote. "Individual actions like choosing alt-meat—or mushrooms, or chickpeas—instead of the real thing can feel so small they're essentially pointless. But every time you abstain from beef at the grocery store or a restaurant, you send a signal—to the grocery store, yes, but also, and perhaps more influentially, to whomever you talk to about your decision."

In an interview with Forbes, Hoffman added that she believes making the change will be very doable.

"There's so much food in the world, and we work with so many fantastic recipe developers, it's honestly not difficult at all to skip one ingredient that's been covered plenty in the past," she told the outlet.

In recent years, critics have publicly called for the general public to reduce their intake of red meat. In 2019, dietician Kristin Kirkpatrick wrote a piece for TODAY explaining that while many trendy diets — like paleo or keto, for example — call for increased consumption of red meat, it's actually not very healthy.

"Bottom line: There does not seem to be a lot of health benefits from having red or processed meat as a regular part of your diet," Kirkpatrick wrote, citing several studies that found frequent red meat can lead to disease and early death.

And earlier this month, in honor of Earth Day, chef Joel Gamoran offered TODAY advice for cutting back on all meat.

The cattle industry does not appear to have responded to the move on Monday by Epicurious, but the National Cattleman's Beef Association this month put out a release arguing that the U.S. beef production system is sound, citing a recent research paper.

"U.S. beef production is the most sustainable production system in the world, a fact long understood by America's cattle producers, who between the 1960s and 2018, reduced the carbon footprint of the industry by 40% while producing 66% more beef," the release reads, before arguing that cattle and beef production makes up only 2% of U.S. greenhouse gas emissions.

Still, the editors at Epicurious hope the reduction in beef consumption will catch on.

"Epi's agenda is the same as it has always been: to inspire home cooks to be better, smarter, and happier in the kitchen," the story by Hoffman and Tamarkin concludes. "The only change is that we now believe that part of getting better means cooking with the planet in mind. If we don't, we'll end up with no planet at all."

The best cooking torch - KHON2

Posted: 26 Apr 2021 12:10 PM PDT

The top kitchen torches

When you want to add that artisan flair to your food, many individuals turn to a cooking torch. The right model can put the finishing touches on a sous vide dish and caramelize a crème brûlée. However, if you've never used a cooking torch, you might not be sure which features a quality model should have.

We like the Iwatani PRO2 Culinary Butane Torch for its convenience. This unit quickly attaches to a butane canister for easy use. Before you buy, it's best to understand what features you'll need and what your budget is. 

What to know before you buy a kitchen torch

What is a cooking torch?

A cooking torch– or kitchen torch– is a small, handheld torch that burns at incredibly high temperatures. While most home cooking torches are fueled by butane, some professional chefs use propane models because propane burns roughly 1,000 degrees hotter than butane. A cooking torch is used to accomplish several specialized cooking techniques, such as caramelizing the top of a crème brûlée.

Uses for a cooking torch

Besides crème brûlée, the aspiring chef can use a cooking torch on various foods. One of the most popular uses is quickly searing steaks without overcooking the meat. Once you feel comfortable using a cooking torch, you can melt cheese on anything, crisp the top of oatmeal, roast the outer skin of vegetables, brown meringue and much more.

Types of kitchen torches

The two main types of cooking torches are torch-head cooking torches and cooking torches with built-in fuel tanks.

Torch-head cooking torches: This type of cooking torch has a nozzle that fastens to the top of a butane tank. It is convenient, easy to use and doesn't require the hassle of refilling. It can, however, be a little more awkward to handle because it is not ergonomically designed – you simply hold it by the fuel tank.

Cooking torches with built-in fuel tanks: While this type of cooking torch tends to be more expensive, it is also much more comfortable to hold and manipulate. This type of model often has a few additional safety features as well.

What to look for in a quality cooking torch 

Easy-start

The best cooking torch will feature a push-start piezo ignition, like a backyard grill, to quickly spark the flame. 

Safety features

There are several safety features you will want your cooking torch to have.

Stable base: When you set your torch down, you do not want it to fall over. A damaged torch can be extremely dangerous. For this reason, the best cooking torches have large, stable bases.

Safety lock: While the feature that keeps the fuel locked in the "off" position may frustrate adults, it keeps curious children from accidentally igniting the cooking torch.

Anti-flare neck: This is essential. An anti-flare neck limits the chances of burn injuries by limiting flame flare-ups. 

Heat shield: This small shield is found on a few new models. Its purpose is to help shield the user's hand from the heat of the flame. While it is desirable, it is not essential.

Fuel gauge

Just like your vehicle, a cooking torch consumes fuel. Since you do not want any surprises while creating that culinary masterpiece, a fuel gauge lets you know how much fuel you have available at all times, so you never run out.

How much you can expect to spend on a cooking torch

While you can get a cooking torch for less, it's best to look in the $15-$30 range for a combination of affordability and desirability. A professional-quality model can cost as much as $50.

Cooking torch FAQ

Is a cooking torch only for cooking?

A. No. There are several other uses for a cooking torch. As long as you have been adequately trained, you can use a cooking torch for certain home repairs, craft projects, camping trips and more.

Are cooking torches safe?

A. Any time you're using a device that emits a flame, there is an element of risk involved. You can significantly reduce the risk of injury by following necessary safety procedures. Whenever you're using a cooking torch, you must remain alert and be aware of what you are doing at all times. 

  • Never turn a cooking torch on and leave it unattended. 
  • Never use a cooking torch near any flammable items. 
  • Never let children handle a cooking torch. 

It is essential to keep a fire extinguisher rated for kitchen use on hand in case of emergencies.

The best torches for the kitchen

Top cooking torch

Iwatani PRO2 Culinary Butane Torch

Iwatani PRO2 Culinary Butane Torch

What you need to know: This convenient culinary device gives the aspiring chef a simple way to perform various food torching tasks.

What you'll love: This option is a pistol-style nozzle that attaches directly to a butane fuel canister. There is no fussing with refilling. When it's empty, just replace the fuel canister and you're ready to go.

What you should consider: There are some critical bits of information in the instructions; do not skip reading them. 

Where to buy: Sold by Amazon.

Top cooking torch for the money

EurKitchen Culinary Butane Torch

EurKitchen Culinary Butane Torch

What you need to know: If you're on a budget but would still like a feature-packed cooking torch, this model is the one you should consider.

What you'll love: This affordable cooking torch has both a safety lock and a large, sturdy base. It features a push-button start and is available either with or without an easy-to-read fuel gauge.

What you should consider: While individuals appreciate the safety lock, a few found it difficult to operate.

Where to buy: Sold by Amazon.

Worth checking out

Spicy Dew Blow Torch

Spicy Dew Blow Torch

What you need to know: This reasonably priced model is best for individuals who want a reliable cooking torch that features a fun design.

What you'll love: The gas capacity of this cooking torch is significantly larger than other comparably priced models. It features both a child safety lock and a heat guard to protect your hand from the heat. The conveniently placed flame control is easy to operate.

What you should consider: Some individuals experienced difficulty when trying to light this model. 

Where to buy: Sold by Amazon.

Allen Foster is a writer for BestReviews. BestReviews is a product review company with a singular mission: to help simplify your purchasing decisions and save you time and money.

Copyright 2021 BestReviews, a Nexstar company. All rights reserved.

Cooking On North is third book by Middleboro's Lorna Brunelle - SouthCoastToday.com

Posted: 26 Apr 2021 05:22 PM PDT

The Burt Wood School of Performing Arts and The Alley Theatre have been closed inside for lessons, classes, and shows since March 2020. During the past fourteen months owner Lorna J. Brunelle has moved the program online, utilized a patio on campus for live entertainment, and has hosted a series of fundraisers for their Leave The Lights On campaign. Her latest effort to secure funds for the program is her newly released book, Cooking On North — A Culinary Collection of Meals and Memories. The cookbook has nearly 100 family recipes. 

The child of a Sicilian mother, Lorna grew up in the kitchen, where timeless meals pass from one generation to the next, and food is love. Lorna is a proud 4th generation cook and credits her Sicilian relatives for her culinary skills. The cookbook is a celebration of flavor and tradition, friendship and family. Prepared on North Street, in the historic Ebenezer Soule House, Lorna's recipes honor the farmers and growers who provide the ingredients that power our memories and feed our souls. This follows Lorna's bestselling books: The Buoy Projects and Dirty Bombshell.

In the foreword of Cooking On North Brunelle mentions turning 50 this year, and wanting to take a vacation. In the end, this book was the trip she needed most. Through her mom's recipes, she was able to travel back in time and spend hours in the kitchen remembering their time cooking together. What began as a fundraiser became a healing homecoming one meal at a time. 

Just in time for Mother's Day, signed  copies of Cooking On North will be available Friday, May 7 at The Burt Wood School of Performing Arts from 5:00 p.m. - 8:00 p.m. The school is located at 133 Centre Street in Middleboro. 

The production of Cooking On North involved several local businesses owners. Barbara Standish of Standish Enterprise produced, designed and printed this project, Joshua Narciso created the front and back cover design, and all promotional pieces, Jennifer Vaughn edited the book, and Attorney Diane Stewart Esq. secured the copyright.

If you would like to support the Leave the Lights On Campaign and cannot attend the signing, email burtwoodschool@aol.com for a signed copy. Pre-sale price is $35.00 per copy.



from What to Cook https://ift.tt/3nmZlZS
google-playkhamsatmostaqltradent