Three Ways to a Better Chicken Breast - The New York Times

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Three Ways to a Better Chicken Breast - The New York Times

Three Ways to a Better Chicken Breast - The New York Times

Posted: 04 Jun 2021 09:02 AM PDT

In the 1723 cookery book "The Cooks and Confectioners Dictionary," the author John Nott shares a recipe for chicken breasts, in which the skins get lifted and stuffed with grated bacon, anchovies and herbs. According to the Oxford English Dictionary, it's one of the first written accounts of the noun cluster "chicken breasts" in the English language. It's also a great way to cook white meat so that it doesn't dry out.

One major design flaw of the chicken breast is that its thickness varies significantly from end to end. This makes for vexingly uneven cooking — especially when the meat comes boneless and skinless. By the time the wide, bulbous side has cooked through, the lither, tapered side (not to mention the outer edges of the entire breast) has gone stringy, practically desiccated.

But here's the thing: You don't have to accept that ugly lopsidedness. Take control of your life — and of your chicken.

The trick to keeping breast meat tender and juicy is to alter its anatomy completely. There are a few key ways to do this. The easiest is to carve the breast in half crosswise where the thicker end meets the thinner end. This way you can pull the thinner pieces off the heat earlier, allowing the thicker ones to finish cooking for another minute or two.

Another method is to ensure the meat retains its natural moisture. What makes a chicken breast juicy is water, not fat (after all, white meat is very lean). A simple dry brine — a mixture of salt, sugar and spices — provides that bit of insurance. It's the salt that's most crucial, as it draws out the meat's water. That water then dissolves the salt on the surface of the meat and, through diffusion, the two re-enter the meat, seasoning the chicken thoroughly.

As evidenced by Volume 3 of "Modernist Cuisine: The Art and Science of Cooking," dissolved salt modifies the protein structure of meat, allowing it to hold onto water by slowing the contraction of muscle fibers during the cooking process. This contraction ordinarily "squeezes juices out during cooking," but a dry brine rewards you with retained juiciness.

A marinade can yield similarly juicy results through different means. In this stir-fry, a group of enzymes in fresh pineapple, bromelain, breaks down the connective tissues of fibrous chicken, turning the otherwise taut meat into slackened nuggets. Watch and be amazed as this powerful potion transforms tough, plain white meat into a supple dark-meat doppelgänger.

But proceed with caution: Marinate the chicken too long and you'll end up with gluey shreds of meat. Fifteen minutes is the Goldilocks time, which is to say, just right.

Other acidic ingredients have similar benefits. The lactic acid in sour cream tenderizes chicken beautifully and also helps crunchy, savory coatings stick to the meat. Smear it all over chicken breasts and encase them in a thick coating of buttery Ritz cracker crumbs and grated sharp Cheddar for a result equal parts moist and crisp.

This comforting chicken bake tastes best with cutlets, which are always a great weeknight option. Though you could pound a thick breast out into a thin paillard (which also breaks down the fibers of the meat), another less violent approach is to slice through the middle of the breast horizontally so you're left with two cutlets of equal size. As with most things in life, two is better than one.

Recipes: Dry-Brined Chicken Breasts | Pineapple-Marinated Chicken Breasts | Ritzy Cheddar Chicken Breasts

The tangy, umami flavors of Ritzy Cheddar chicken breasts would go awfully well with a rich, balanced chardonnay, whether from Oregon, California, Australia or Burgundy. I often warn against oak flavors in wine, and I never want overt oakiness. But with this dish, a chardonnay with the textural and subtle flavor additions of well-integrated oak would be delightful. Sparkling wines like Champagne or Vouvray Brut would also be delicious. You could drink a still Vouvray as well or a Savennières, both Loire Valley whites made with the chenin blanc grape. As for the pineapple-marinated chicken breast, the sweetness of the fruit offers an opportunity for a sweet wine. Try a spätlese riesling, or even a sweeter auslese. A demi-sec Vouvray, a Tokaji Aszu or even a Sauternes would be great fun with this dish. ERIC ASIMOV

Who said chicken is boring? Try these 5 fab recipes - Boston Herald

Posted: 19 May 2021 12:00 AM PDT

Some people look at chicken and see something boring. Bland. Blah.

I look at chicken and see a world of possibilities.

I like chicken. I probably make it dozens of different ways. But over the years, five ways for making it have come to the fore, firmly establishing themselves as my favorite methods ever. These are recipes that transform the humble chicken from the ordinary and everyday into a meal of transcendent perfection.

That may be overstating it a bit. But these recipes are good. They're really, really good.

Crispy-Skin Chicken with Pan Sauce. (Hillary Levin/St. Louis Post-Dispatch/TNS)

CRISPY-SKIN CHICKEN WITH PAN SAUCE

4 small chicken thighs or 2 large thighs

Salt and pepper

1/2 c. dry white wine, see note

1/2 c. chicken broth, see note

3 sprigs basil, thyme or tarragon, or 2 sprigs rosemary

1/2 T. butter

Note: If you don't want to use wine, use 1 cup chicken broth.

With a sharp knife, cut fairly deeply along both sides of the bone on the back of the thighs. Season chicken with salt and pepper and place skin-side down on an unheated skillet.

Place skillet on stove and turn heat to medium-high. Cook a few minutes until you see rendered fat emerge from under the meat. Cover and cook until meat is done, 20 to 30 more minutes, depending on the size of the thighs (cut into meat to check; it is done when meat at thickest point is no longer pink).

Remove chicken and keep warm. Pour out fat from skillet. Place skillet back over high heat and add wine, if using, broth and herbs. With a wooden spoon, stir up all the brown bits on the bottom. Simmer until liquid is reduced by half or more. Remove pan from heat, add butter, and swirl butter around until it is melted and incorporated into sauce.

When serving, place chicken on plate and spoon sauce around it, to keep the skin crispy. Makes 2 servings.

(Crispy-skin method by Jacques Pepin; pan sauce recipe by Daniel Neman.)

KARAAGE

3 T. soy sauce

2 T. sake

1 T. grated fresh ginger

2 garlic cloves, minced

3/4 t. granulated sugar

1/8 t. table salt

1 1/2 lbs. boneless, skinless chicken thighs, trimmed and cut crosswise into 1- to 1 1/2-inch strips, see note

1 1/4 c. cornstarch

1 qt. peanut or vegetable oil, for frying

Lemon wedges

Note: Do not use chicken breasts, which will dry out during the frying.

Combine soy sauce, sake, ginger, garlic, sugar and salt in medium bowl. Add chicken and toss to combine. Let sit at room temperature for 30 minutes. While chicken is marinating, line a rimmed baking sheet with parchment paper. Set wire rack in second rimmed baking sheet and line rack with triple layer of paper towels. Place cornstarch in wide bowl.

Lift chicken from marinade, 1 piece at a time, allowing excess marinade to drip back into bowl but leaving any garlic or ginger bits on chicken. Coat chicken with cornstarch, shake off excess and place on parchment-lined sheet. Reserve marinade.

Add oil to large Dutch oven until it measures about 3/4-inch deep and heat over medium-high heat to 375 degrees. While oil heats, check chicken pieces for white patches of dry cornstarch. Dip back of spoon in reserved marinade and gently press onto dry spots to lightly moisten.

Using tongs, add half of chicken, 1 piece at a time, to oil in single layer. Cook, adjusting burner if necessary, to maintain oil temperature between 300 and 325 degrees, until chicken is golden brown and crispy, 4 to 5 minutes. Using spider skimmer or slotted spoon, transfer chicken to paper towel-lined rack. Return oil to 325 degrees and repeat with remaining chicken. Serve with lemon wedges (the lemon adds an important flavor note). Makes 4 to 6 servings.

For even better results, fry a second time at least 1 or 2 hours, and as long as 24 hours, after frying the first time. Keep refrigerated before frying a second time.

(Adapted from "The Chicken Bible" by America's Test Kitchen.)

Maple-Bourbon Chicken Wings. (Hillary Levin/St. Louis Post-Dispatch/TNS)

MAPLE-BOURBON CHICKEN WINGS

2/3 c. maple syrup

2/3 c. bourbon

1/4 c. dark brown sugar, firmly packed

1/2 t. crushed red pepper or cayenne pepper, or to taste, optional

3 lbs. chicken wings

Preheat oven to 400 degrees.

In a small saucepan, mix together maple syrup, bourbon, brown sugar and pepper, if using. Bring to a boil, reduce the heat and simmer until it reaches the thickness of a syrup. You will have about 1 cup of liquid. Allow to cool and thicken.

Season wings with salt and pepper. Spread on a baking sheet in a single layer. Roast for 20 minutes. Flip and roast 15 more minutes. Place wings in a bowl and toss with maple-bourbon mixture.

Spread coated wings back on baking sheet and cook until done (internal temperature of 165 degrees), 10 to 20 minutes, depending on size of wings. If wings start to get too dark, cover with a sheet of aluminum foil. Makes 4 to 6 servings.

(Adapted from "Salt Sugar Smoke" by Diana Henry.)

Roast Chicken with Herbed Butter and Croutons. (Hillary Levin/St. Louis Post-Dispatch/TNS)

ROAST CHICKEN WITH HERBED BUTTER AND CROUTONS

4 T. (1/2 stick) butter, slightly softened

1/2 c. chopped fresh herbs, such as flat-leaf parsley, chives, chervil, basil or cilantro

1 t. table salt or fine sea salt

1/2 t. dried garlic flakes

1 whole small chicken, about 3 1/2 lbs.

1 2/3 c. cubed day-old bread

Note: The chicken can be buttered and stuffed up to a day in advance, wrapped in plastic wrap and refrigerated.

Preheat oven to 450 degrees.

In a medium bowl, mash together the butter, herbs, salt and garlic flakes.

Put the chicken breast-side up, neck end facing you, on a clean work surface. Slip a clean hand under the skin, starting at the base of the neck, and work your hand further in gently, lifting the skin over each breast and down over each thigh, without tearing. Once the skin is loosened, slip in two-thirds of the herbed butter (reserve the rest for the croutons), pushing it under the skin to coat the breasts and thighs evenly.

Add the bread cubes to the remaining herbed butter and stir to coat. Stuff the buttered cubes inside the cavity, and tie the chicken with kitchen string around the drumstick ends and wings to hold its shape. Put the chicken breast-side up in a baking pan, preferably on a rack. Roast for 20 minutes.

Loosen the chicken gently from the rack or the bottom of the pan. Flip to expose the back and baste with the juices. Roast for 20 minutes more. Loosen and flip so the breast faces up again, baste with the juices and roast until the skin is golden brown and crackly, a final 20 minutes (longer if the chicken is more than 3 1/2 lbs.). A meat thermometer inserted into the thickest part of the thigh should register 165 degrees. Remove from the oven, cover with foil and let rest 10 to 15 minutes.

Carve the chicken and serve with the croutons and cooking juices. Makes 4 servings.

(Recipe from "Tasting Paris" by Clotilde Dusoulier.)

Rao's Famous Lemon Chicken. (Hillary Levin/St. Louis Post-Dispatch/TNS)

RAO'S FAMOUS LEMON CHICKEN

2 c. fresh lemon juice

1 c. olive oil

1 T. red wine vinegar

1 1/2 t. minced garlic

1/2 t. dried oregano

Salt and pepper to taste

2 (3 to 3 1/2 lb.) chickens, halved

1/4 c. chopped parsley

Preheat oven to 425 degrees. Place racks in top and bottom thirds of oven.

Whisk together lemon juice, olive oil, vinegar, garlic, oregano, salt and pepper. Cover and refrigerate if not using within several hours. Whisk or shake vigorously before using.

Season chicken halves with salt and pepper, place on 2 baking sheets and roast 30 minutes, turning once. Cook longer if using larger chickens.

Remove chicken from oven and preheat broiler. With a very sharp knife, cut each half into 6 pieces (leg, thigh, wing, 3 small breast pieces). Pour sauce over chicken and toss to coat well. If necessary, divide sauce in half and do this in 2 batches.

Broil 1 pan of chicken for 3 minutes. Turn each piece and broil for an additional minute. Keep that chicken warm while repeating with the other pan.

Place chicken on serving platter or individual plates. Pour sauce into a heavy saucepan. Stir in parsley and place over high heat for 1 minute. Pour sauce over chicken and serve with lots of crusty bread to absorb the sauce. Makes 6 to 8 servings.

(Recipe from "Rao's Cookbook" by Frank Pellegrino.)

49 Best Ninja Foodi Chicken Recipes - How to Cook Chicken in Ninja Foodi - Parade

Posted: 21 May 2021 12:00 AM PDT

Ninja Foodi Southwestern Roast Chicken
(The Bewitchin' Kitchen)

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If you haven't heard of the Ninja Foodi yet, it's time to make acquaintance with this marvelous new kitchen appliance that's taking the world by storm. This handy gadget makes stress-free meal prep easier than ever and dishes come out perfectly cooked and delicious every single time, especially these 49 Ninja Foodi chicken recipes, but more on those below.

What is the Ninja Foodi?

There's the Ninja Foodi Grill, the Ninja Foodi Air Fryer, Ninja Foodi Blender, Ninja Foodi Oven and more, all with many different functions so it's like the all-in-one kitchen gadget every home cook should have. It's literally a pressure cooker and air fryer, completely with being an oven, dehydrator and slow cooker as well.

Related: 50+ Best Ninja Air Fryer Recipes

Best Ninja Foodi Chicken Recipes

You can practically make every and anything in the Ninja Foodi, from meats and veggies, to pasta and rice and soups. If you're a chicken lover like myself, you'll be pumped to know that this amazing appliance can cook poultry in countless ways. From making Ninja Foodi Roast Chicken to Ninja Foodi Shredded BBQ Chicken, to Ninja Foodi Lemon Pepper Chicken and Ninja Foodi Spicy Honey Garlic Chicken, there's at least one recipe you're gonna love!

Here are 49 Ninja Foodi chicken recipes for dinner in a flash. Browse through them, make sure you pin your favorites and never make chicken another way again.

Next Up, 50+ Best Ninja Foodi Grill Recipes to Make Indoors

About the Author:

Felicia Lim is the author of the food blog Dish by Dish, where she shares gluten-free recipes that actually taste good.

Drop by her blog and say hello, preferably with a cookie in one hand, and a steeping mug of tea in the other!

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