You’ve been warmed: 10 slow-bake recipes to keep you home - The Guardian

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You’ve been warmed: 10 slow-bake recipes to keep you home - The Guardian


You’ve been warmed: 10 slow-bake recipes to keep you home - The Guardian

Posted: 26 Jun 2021 10:53 PM PDT

With more of us spending time indoors during winter and while working from home, your oven can double up on duties: making dinner and warming your kitchen in the process. You don't need a slow cooker when your oven can do all the work for you, from tender confit vegetables to a rich and luxurious custard.

There are few things as friendly in the way they soak up flavour as a cauliflower.
There are few things as friendly in the way they soak up flavour as a cauliflower. Photograph: Issy Croker/The Guardian

As Anna Jones notes, whole roasted cauliflower has been experiencing a renaissance on the restaurant scene for the past couple of years.

Not only does a whole burnished cauliflower look impressive, but roasting it brings out its natural buttery, slightly nutty flavours and with cauliflowers in plentiful supply at the moment, it's a cost-efficient dish too.

The cheesy roast: Yotam Ottolenghi's herby cabbage and potato bake with gruyère and ricotta.
Yotam Ottolenghi's herby, cheesy bake is cabbage but not how you know it. Photograph: Louise Hagger/The Guardian

Cabbage has an unfair reputation due to many of us suffering the horror of being served flaccid, greying masses of it during childhood.

However, much like cauliflower, roasting cabbage until it develops a light char brings out another dimension in flavour. Yotam Ottolenghi combines this with caramelised garlic to elevate the traditional potato gratin. Served alone as an indulgent meal or as an accompaniment to a roast.

Gill Meller set out with a clear vision when she developed this recipe: "I wanted to create something similar to those carrots you find in a beef stew after hours of lazy simmering, only without the beef."

Three hours might seem like a long time to cook carrots but the boozy bath and low oven temperature will ensure the carrots remain saucy and fork-tender.

Oven Braised Lamb Shank Rogan josh Vivek Singh
Vivek Singh's lamb shank rogan josh is the perfect dinner party centrepiece. Photograph: Romas Foord/The Observer

An Indian restaurant classic, this rogan josh is the perfect dinner party centrepiece, swapping the usual diced lamb for a whole lamb shank cooked until the meat falls away from the bone.

Most spices are easily bought at your local supermarket or Indian grocer but it's worth seeking out the black cardamom, which unlike the more commonly known green cardamom, has been dried over an open flame and imbues the curry with a deep, smoky flavour.

Pork tacos: 'I learned how crucial it is to give salt the time to distribute itself and diffuse,' says Samin. 'It's why we salted our meat the night before cooking at Chez Panisse.'
'I learned how crucial it is to give salt the time to distribute itself and diffuse,' says Samin Nosrat of her meltingly tender pork tacos. Photograph: Clare Hewitt/The Guardian

Juggling hosting duties and cooking at dinner parties is always a stressful task but with some careful preparation, most of the work is done for you with these crowd-pleasing tacos by Samin Nosrat.

If you start early your slow-roasted pork will be meltingly tender by the time your first guest arrives. Prep the slaw, tortillas and condiments and leave the assembly of the tacos up to your guests.

Milk and chicken sounds like start of a horrifying kitchen experiment but the science behind this paring in Diana Henry's recipe results in the lactic acid in milk tenderising the meat.

As an added bonus, the milk creates a creamy sauce that will keep your roast chicken even juicier.

One-tray pork and mushroom pasta
'Dry pasta really does go into the sauce uncooked,' says Yotam Ottolenghi of this one-tray beauty. Photograph: Louise Hagger/The Guardian

It might seem counterintuitive but "dry pasta really does go into the sauce uncooked", writes Yotam Ottolenghi of this pasta bake.

His recipe calls for paccheri, a pasta tube that looks like an engorged macaroni but you can substitute any large, robust pasta, such as rigatoni.

A piquant caper salsa and peppery rocket adds brightness to the finished dish.

A "warm bath of oil and aromatics" perfectly describes where I'd like to see out the rest of the Australian winter, but as Yotam Ottolenghi explains, "it's a total transformation of something mild and humble into something rich and luxurious".

The meaty texture of portobello mushrooms lends itself perfectly to being cooked low and slow and the ideal choice to switch things up if you're stuck in a steak and mash rut.

Ravneet Gill's baked custard with roast rhubarb.
Velvety and unctuous: Ravneet Gill's baked custard with roast rhubarb. Photograph: Laura Edwards/The Guardian

Using just a few modest ingredients: milk, cream, eggs and sugar, cooking this dessert slowly in a water bath results in the most velvety, unctuous custard.

As pastry chef Ravneet Gill warns, "brace yourself".

Poached quince with rice pudding.
Ultimate form of kitchen sorcery: poached quince with rice pudding. Photograph: Mike Bowers/The Guardian

Roasting quinces is the ultimate form of kitchen sorcery. Once cooked, these hard, inedible, astringent yellow lumpy fruits, transform into soft, yielding, shimmering garnets. Served with a nursery classic – rice pudding – you have the perfect winter comfort food.

Ben Milgate and Elvis Abrahanowicz's dessert will ensure your home is not only warm, but filled with a heady aromatic fug.

8 recipes to level up your cucumber salad, including smashed, sliced and chopped - The Washington Post

Posted: 26 Jun 2021 07:00 AM PDT

Smacked Cucumber in Garlicky Sauce (Suan Ni Pai Huan Gua). A sauce including garlic, soy sauce, Chinkiang (black) vinegar and Sichuan pepper electrify the otherwise mellow cucumber. The recipe is from Fuchsia Dunlop's "Every Grain of Rice," one of the entries in our free Essential Cookbooks newsletter. Why smack (or smash) your cucumbers? As food writer and recipe developer Ali Slagle explains, "With a few whacks of a cleaver, skillet, rolling pin or some other heavy device, the cucumber is broken up into irregular pieces. Some spots stay firm, while others give and soften. In those irregular crags, dressing can nestle." See Smacked Cucumber Salad for a slightly different version.

Grow it, eat it: June recipes for the vegetable gardener - pressherald.com

Posted: 27 Jun 2021 01:00 AM PDT

Raw radishes can be unpleasantly spicy, but there are simple ways to soften their bite. Hirundo/Shutterstock.com

As a very new vegetable gardener, I cannot possibly convey what a thrill it is to cook with something that I grew myself. Or even just to eat it raw.

My partner has, I'm sure, grown tired of hearing me squeal with delight each summer day when I come in from the garden with lettuce to add to our lunchtime sandwiches, "Look! We are eating our own lettuce! Isn't that amazing?! Isn't it pretty?! Could I be any more farm-to-table?!" or when I point out (frequently, daily) that the muesli we've just had for breakfast not only uses my own homemade yogurt, but also my own rhubarb compote that I made from my own rhubarb stalks that I harvested myself from my own rhubarb patch that I PLANTED MYSELF AND ISN'T THAT ALL JUST AMAZING?! These are rhetorical questions, obviously.

Whether you are a new over-enthusiastic vegetable gardener like me, or an old hand, now is the time you are probably harvesting radishes and peas. Personally, I don't (yet) grow enough peas – either shelling peas or sugar snaps – to cook with, so I usually just snack on them while I'm weeding and watering. But if you do, or if you pick them up at the farmers market and are wondering what to make, here are two very easy ways to cook with them.

Roasted Radishes

Growing up, the only times I ever encountered radishes were either chopped up and thrown into green salads or served halved and raw on a tray with other vegetables and a dip. I wasn't a fan, usually finding them bitingly, unpleasantly hot. Americans don't often think to cook with radishes, but after reading the idea in the New York Times years ago, I tried it and I've never looked back. Their bite softens, and they are delicious. When you braise them, they turn a pretty pink. You could easily add to or change up the flavorings with this recipe. But don't throw away the greens – they are edible and also tasty.

2 to 3 bunches radishes
1½ tablespoons peanut oil
2 tablespoons soy sauce
2 scallions, sliced thin on the bias
1 tablespoon toasted sesame seeds

Preheat the oven to 425. Halve the radishes from stem to root. If they are unusually big, cut them into quarters. You want all the radishes to be the same size so they will roast evenly. Combine the radishes with the oil on a baking sheet. Toss to coat in the oil. Roast until the radishes are tender and beginning to brown, about 20 minutes. Drizzle with soy sauce, toss, then roast an additional 5 minutes until the glaze gets syrupy. Serve, sprinkled with the scallions and sesame seeds. Taste for salt, but the soy may have provided enough salt.

Sugar Snap Peas with Radishes

This recipe, which you can make in 5 minutes, is more of a suggestion than a recipe. That's how I prefer my summer recipes. On Maine's fleeting, spectacular summer days, I don't want to be inside cooking. Also, summer produce doesn't need a heavy hand in the kitchen, especially if you've grown it yourself.

Butter
Sugar snaps
Radishes
Salt and pepper
Freshly chopped mint
Freshly chopped chives

Melt a pat of butter in a saute pan. Saute the sugar snaps in the pan with thickly sliced radishes for a few minutes, seasoning them with salt and pepper, to taste. Do not overcook. The freshness of this dish, both in color and taste, is its appeal. Sprinkle the vegetables with chopped fresh mint and chives. That's it. Eat up.


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